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Carter and Cooley

I first wandered into the Carter and Cooley Deli located at the corner of 19th and Ashland on December 5th of last year. 

I remember the date because it was the day that it snowed all day – in Houston. 

It was also the Friday that the Holiday on 19th Street Christmas celebration was planned.

My wife’s office had closed due to the weather so we had taken the opportunity to take a quick trip down 19th Street to see who would and wouldn’t be open.  We popped in and out of shops polling their owners to get a picture of how the evening was going to turn out.

By the time we got to Carter and Cooley to grab a bite to eat, it was nearly 3:00 o’clock and the folks at the deli were in the process of closing down.  It was cold, it had been dreadfully slow and the owners had called it a day.  Who could blame them?

They were patient with our late arrival and helped us with a quick bite, but we hardly had an opportunity to take the place in.

I decided this week to try it again.  After two lunchtime visits, I am pleased that I did.

Carter and Cooley is everything Heights.  Having been open for nearly a generation, Carter and Cooley is as much a Heights museum as it is deli.  The walls are decorated with dozens of old photographs and authentic nostalgia that chronicle the life and times of The Historic Heights. 

The facility itself hearkens back to days ago.  The tall glass windows that line the front provide a view of the quiet street outside, which seems miles from downtown rather than minutes.  Truly, it has a small town attitude in a big city zip code. 

The staff at Carter and Cooley are friendly and genuine.  Quick with a smile, when they ask about your day, they listen to your answer and seem to be interested in what you have to say.    Simply put, they seem more like neighbors than merchants.  The deli, it seems is their life, not their job and the diners are friends instead of customers.  The way things “used to be.”

And best of all, the handmade sandwiches are honestly delicious.  To use a cliché, they remind me of Mom’s.  I haven’t hade a better Reuben in years.  Grilled, hot and gooey.  Outstanding.  I also tried the B.L.T., which is stacked.  Hot toast, crunchy bacon and crisp lettuce and tomato.  Add a side of authentic Southern Potato Salad and you can’t go wrong.  Plus, the homemade desserts are the perfect finish.

 From pastrami to liverwurst to ham and turkey, the deli menu has a bit of everything

If you find yourself in the Heights or simply live nearby, stop in and visit.  The folks will be happy to see you and the food is worth the trip.

In a fast-paced, me-first world Carter and Cooley is like a step back in time – a step back to better days.

The Cajun Corner

With the weather bending to the cool side and Thanksgiving past, I can finally begin to look forward to the best time of the year - Crawfish Season! 

Yes, it is way too early to expect to be dazzled by the bugs I will find, but the season is legitimately upon us now that December is here, so I find that I can no longer resist the urge to see what's in store this year.

As I wrote here last season, I have three favorite places for crawfish - Ragin Cajun, Mardi Gras  and Cajun Corner.  Each spot holds a different lure for me when it comes to getting bugs.  Mandola's spot has the biggest bugs, Mardi Gras uses a heavy dry spice and Cajun Corner has a simply unbeatable and incomparable flavor.

So this weekend, when I started to get the itch, I placed a few calls to see if I could get it scratched.

First I called Mandola's Ragin Cajun.  I know that Mandola waits for good bugs to come in season before they start boiling.  If Ragin Cajun has crawfish in house, then the bugs at other places are bound to be decent as well.  But I also realize that being really early in the season, I am not gonna get big dads no matter where I go, so I figured I'd go for the flavor and head out west to Little Asia on the West Side.  Cajun Corner on Bellaire at Belle Park is the destination. 

After one last call just to be sure they were selling live crawfish, it was time to head out.  Living in the Heights, Cajun Corner is about 17 miles west of the house so a confirmation phone call is always part of the preliminary protocol.  (I've made the drive only to be disappointed more than once.) 

The little restaurant is an odd incarnation.  Imagine the decor of a taqueria with a menu that is a strange marriage of Cajun and Vietnamese cuisines.  The clientele is also quite eclectic, drawing from all over the West Side, which makes for great people watching.  

My family and I have been going to the Cajun Corner for quite a while.  One of my wife's colleagues turned her onto the place a few years ago when they went for lunch.  A strange choice for a professional lunch, I thought, but my wife was so impressed with the Dungeness crabs, she soon had me there for dinner.  I, too, was hooked.  The flavors in the seafood boil are intense and wonderful.  A garlicky, citrusy and salty concoction that is decidedly Asian but would make any Cajun proud.

My wife and I were happy to make the trip last weekend and delighted to get our first fix of the 2009-2010 Crawfish Season.  We slurped our way crazily through ten pounds and walked away feeling the salt coursing through our veins, with lips blazing and with eyes and noses running.

The bugs were small, but the flavors did not disappoint.  Worth the drive.

That being said, there are a few observations to be shared before you decide to make a trek.

The spot has changed ownership over the last few years with some good and some bad effects.  The restaurant has become somewhat cleaner and a bit more presentable in terms of its appearance.  New flat screens are up, and the restrooms are more tolerable.  The staff is also more tuned into the service they are providing, which is a nice change from the days when service was a total afterthought.

But the menu has suffered some.  Boiled crawfish, shrimp and blue crab are among the best in the city and still draw folks from miles around, but the delicious Dungeness crabs and live lobsters that are no longer served are sorely missed and do affect the magnetism of this little eatery.  (The tanks in which they used to lurk like death-row inmates are replaced by a coffee and beignet bar that seems to be unused.)  Too bad to give up on what many considered to be their very best offering and what, in fact, first drew us to the place.

The rest of the menu is far less than stellar.  From the gumbo to the fried rice, order at your own risk.

Also, I noticed, this year, a new auto-gratuity added to every check.  Even parties of two.  Having been in the service business for a lifetime, I can think of several legitimate reasons why management decided to implement this policy.  And I will say that our server was worth the presumptuous 20%, but I was a bit surprised that it was unannounced.  And I was more surprised that I was not given an itemized bill showing the gratuity until I, confused by the total, asked to see one.  I felt a bit duped.  Not so good.

But when all was said and done and my first seasonal yearnings had been sated, I was happy.  After 25 or more visits over the past few years, I give Cajun Corner a solid recommendation.  Just expect the unexpected and remember, it's all about the flavors.

El Rey Is King

El Rey is The King.  Plain and simple.  This little Mexican/Cuban Taqueria might have the best tacos I’ve ever had.  And it only took me two years to figure it out.  I've driven by this place dozens of times since moving to the Heights and every time I keep telling myself, "I need to try that place."  Finally, I did.  And I could kick myself for waiting so long.

The truth is El Rey does what it sets out to do in almost perfect fashion.  That is providing outstanding Mexican and Cuban cuisine in a fast, friendly environment, while keeping the prices in line with what one would expect from a fast-serve taqueria.

Simply put, the food is delicious.  Every single thing that I have had from the menu has been excellent.  From the tacos to the sandwiches.  And the house-made green and red salsas that they generously load into the takeout bag are truly awesome.

The location I frequent most often is the location at Shepherd and Washington, but there are four Houston locations, including one in the North Heights at Ella and 34th.

Finding fault with El Rey is almost nit-picking, but if there is one thing that stands out it is the drive-thru.  Customers order and pick up at the same window so service can get pretty backed up at this popular eatery.  Plus, there is only space for about three cars in the line before it curls out into traffic on Shepherd Drive.  And there is always a line.  But, the food is worth the risk!   And the wait.

In it’s favor, the drive-thru is open until 3AM from Thursday through Saturday which makes for a fantastic late night meal.  Should you find yourself out at 3AM. (Hours vary by location)

The restaurant inside is generally packed with customers who find it easier to come in than wait in the drive-thru lane.  This does cause a bit of congestion at the door.  But the counter-service is fast, friendly, efficient and accurate!  So getting in and out is a breeze.

The dining room is very clean, but quite small, so all of the traffic makes dining-in a bit of a challenge.  But not impossible.  And the windows looking out on Washington Avenue give diners plenty to watch, especially at night.

I definitely suggest you drop by El Rey if you haven’t been already.  The fajita tacos and the steak sandwich are my favorites, but the entire menu is simply delicious. 

Where's Waldo? Alive And Well In The Heights!

If you read last Monday's post, The Starbucks Triangle, it was clear that not only was I guilty of libertine spending at the ubiquitous coffee peddler, but also, that I had realized the level of my Starbucks' debauchery.  In the end, ashamed at my own lack of discipline, I committed to change.  I suggested that I try to explore the coffee world rather than falling back on routine and habit.  I was to search the local Heights coffee dens and find alternatives to the evil giant.  On Tuesday, I started in earnest on my quest of discovery.

Waldo's Coffee House, located at 1030 Heights Blvd., was my first stop on the trip. 

The cute little shop just before the intersection with 11th Street is a gem of a find.  Nestled in the frame of an old Height house, Waldo's could as easily be located in Chappel Hill as in Houston. 

Waldo's is at once warm and inviting.  The front porch has space to sit and enjoy your latte with the afternoon sun, while inside the house is left divided into its original rooms with several tables in each for relaxed sipping.  The tables are numerous and the windows gaze out on an actual neighborhood.  The quiet comfort is far more charming than the mass-produced Starbucks dining rooms.

The coffee room in the back is clean and well tended.  The staff is friendly and welcoming.  Dana, the day manager, knew me by name after only two visits.  Although, I must admit that I frequented the shop more than twice this week.  Happily, supporting my neighbors.

Waldo's features Houston's own Katz's Coffee in all it's drinks and further sustains the neighborhood featuring a posting board where neighbors can leave notices or drop business cards for others to find.

Free wi-fi throughout the shop mixed with "movie nights" and live music on weekends nurture a zen that is part 60's coffee house and part campus hangout.  Low key, personal and inviting.  A vast improvement over the assembly-line schtick of the baristas at 'Bucks who wantonly echo each order at high volume as if performing theatre of the absurd

With its prime location in the heart of the Heights, Waldo's is never far from wherever you are and with street parking and a lot in back, Waldo's provides easy access for it's patron's and neighbor's.

Next time you need a caffeine boost, stop by and check out Waldo's for yourself.  Not only will you be happy with the flavor of the joe, you'll find true satisfaction in contributing to the success of a neighbor and the Heights, itself.

PLONK! Beer and Wine Bistro

 "Wish you were here, In Beautiful Oak Forest!" proclaims the postcard on the front of each wine list at this new bar located at the intersection of 43rd and Ella.  And that same fierce neighborhood pride emanates from owner and longtime Oak Forest resident, Scott Miller, who says in creating Plonk! he sought "to make the perfect neighborhood bar...especially for Oak Forest."  In fact, Mr. Miller explains that he employed local artisans, craftsmen and merchants exclusively during the design and construction of Plonk!  No surprise when talking to the cerebral Miller who meticulously planned and executed every single aspect of his North Heights incarnation. 

Even the name Plonk! was very carefully chosen.  Plonk is British slang for cheap wine.  More than merely "cheap" wine, it is more truly evocative of thoughts of swill - the very bottom-of-the-barrel juice that was all but forgotten (and certainly neglected) during production.  But Miller, a self-described wordsmith,  "loves the word and its onomatopoeia."  Admittedly, it is fun to say and quite easy to remember.  But even more effective is the juxtaposition created when one compares the mental images conjured by the word plonk to the finely conceived and executed bar that is Plonk! Beer and Wine Bistro.  Of course, that is also no accident.

Plonk! - located at the edge of Oak Forest near Garden Oaks - is easily one of the most enjoyable venues I have visited since moving north of the city.  A classy, upscale atmosphere geared toward the residents of the neighborhood who enjoy savoring fine beer and wine with company in a clean, comfortable and safe setting.

In every detail there is a demonstration of Miller's perfectionist nature.  The former wine director at the renowned Pappas' Steak House has spared no expense in bringing his dream to fruition.  Every wine - from the simplest house wine to the most exotic selection - is at all times cellared in a glass library held at the optimum temperature of 55 degrees.  The beers are also treated with love and stored in a specially designed cooler with a frosty holding temperature of 31.8 degrees.

The architecture of the bar also reflects Miller's mindful diligence.  From the soothing granite bar top - once part of an actual riverbed - smoothed by running waters and lifted from nature to form Plonk's centerpiece to the impressive stone pizza hearth to the hand-laid hickory plank floors.  Plonk! is progressive without being impersonal.  The bar is spacious and intimate in the same moment.

The beer-and-wine list is equally well conceived.  Every palate - and budget - is accommodated, whether you are an enophile or prefer a refreshing brew.  An eclectic mix of tradition and hidden gems, the list will change with the seasons, mirroring the natural evolution of wine itself.  Mr. Miller confidently intimates that his list will always have something for every taste and promises to help you discover your new favorite if you don't find what you thought you were looking for. 

A food menu is in the works and the kitchen should be open in a month or two.  Pizza will be a major focus, but Miller has no designs on becoming a pizza joint.  Instead his culinary goal is to enhance "the Plonk! experience" for fans and followers.  In the meantime, Miller and chef Michelle Salek will satisfy eager crowds by having "Steak Nights" periodically.  The first such event was held September 8 for a sell-out crowd treated to bacon-wrapped filet, grilled shrimp and more, for a mere $20.

News and notices of upcoming events about Plonk! will be shared via email to subscribers.  No advertising is planned.  The only way to join the fun is to get on the mailing list by visiting the website and signing up.

The reason for Mr. Miller's passion is obvious.  Plonk! is truly his life's work.

"Not only did I want to build the best bar in Oak Forest," he says "I wanted to create a place that I would  want to come to every day."  Miller is more than a bartender, owner, chef and host.  He is a visionary and devoted Oak Forest resident bent on bringing his brand of experience to the neighborhood.  Based on what I have seen, Plonk! is exactly what Scott Miller intended it to be.

Dharma Cafe

Dharma Cafe was recommended to my wife and I by a colleague who dines there regularly.  After last night's visit, I am sorry that we didn't heed her advice sooner.

Located in the historic Kessler building at the corner of Houston Avenue and Crockett Street, Dharma is a completely unique experience.  Owners John Gurney and Susan Ralph have infused their own life philosophies into this little restaurant, and the result is dining that is at once as soothing as it is rewarding.

Dharma, as explained on the website, is a Sanskrit word that is "best defined as the spiritual work that you do in your life to return to yourself, your center."  To John and Susan, that work is being of service and "feeding their friends."  There is the source of "Food for Life."

Dharma Cafe's dining room is small but very comfortable.  The tables, which look out over Houston Avenue, are quaint and intimate at the same time.  White linens and fresh flowers adorn each one.  The chairs are an eclectic mix of American country nostalgia, with no two seeming to match.  A small bar, flanked by a tiny lounge, lines one wall with seats for about eight folks to enjoy a cocktail and conversation.

The food is simple and delicious.  The freshest ingredients are used with subtle seasoning to highlight, rather than confuse, their natural flavors. 

From the homemade focaccia brought at the start to the cinnamon vanilla ice cream we ordered to finish. 

The crab cake, ordered as an appetizer, is lump crab - and little else - served in a sassy beurre blanc sauce that melds perfectly with the sauteed seafood.  Our salads were crisp and cold with beautiful tomato and cucumber and perfectly salty kalamata olives drizzled with a delightfully simple balsamic vinaigrette.   

My entree was Cedar-Planked Salmon with seasonal vegetable and new potatoes.  The glaze on the salmon was enough to hold its own without competing with the fish.  Very nice.  The vegetables were crisp and deftly prepared.  My wife had the homemade shrimp and pasta special.  The shrimp were large and plentiful. The pasta, itself, was outstanding.  Smooth in texture and tossed in a lightly creamy sun-dried tomato sauce which managed to be rich without being weighty.

A wide-ranging wine list that offers selections from around the globe complements the fare beautifully. Plus, Dharma offers a full bar and after-dinner selections that can sate any craving.  I suggest the Barros 20 Year Tawny.  Smooth and luscious with the cinnamon vanilla ice cream.

The service was also a tremendous highlight.  I am not easily satisfied, but here I was blown away.  Intuitive, intelligent and technically very sound.  Our server and his back waiter worked flawlessly together.  We were never in need of a single thing.  No detail was missed.  While I do not remember being offered his name, our check was initialed "D".  To him I offer my compliments.

Providing great dining can be a challenging task.  The folks at Dharma Cafe make it simple.

Namaste, John and Sarah.  Namaste.

White Linen Night - Redux

White Linen Night was a blast.  It was my first time to actually participate, but it seems as if it was the biggest White Linen Night in the history of The Heights.  People flowed through the streets and filed in and out of the shops.  Some places had lines literally streaming out the door.  Live music was rockin' in the road and vendors of all kinds were happily hawking their wares.

As the Heights continues its rebirth as a neighborhood filled with active young couples and families, the sky, it seems, is the limit.  

But is the crowd too much for this normally quiet neighborhood to handle?  In addition to the people, trash lined the streets and we saw our cozy hometown slowly turn into a garbage dump as the night wore on.

I have a few suggestions that might make future events more manageable and, possibly, more successful.

1. Close The Streets - Close 19th Street.  Close Heights Boulevard.  Close Yale and shut down Studewood, as well.  Take a hint from the many downtown festivals and close the streets to traffic.  Allow vendors, performers and craft booths to fill the streets and the medians.  Let revelers wander freely back and forth across the streets and enjoy themselves without having to crisscross the roads amid a stream of stop-and-go traffic.  There are plenty of alternate routes in and around The Heights to accommodate this and not hinder travel.  And it would be much safer. 
   
   
    
   
   
2. Laissez Les Bon Temps Rouler - Let the good times roll and extend the hours of the festival to 11:00 PM or midnight. Four hours is hardly enough time to visit half of the places that were celebrating.  The party is just getting started at 10:00 PM, the official end to the festivities.  I understand that White Linen Night has, in past years, started earlier, but I believe it would be more fun for everyone if the extension in hours came at the end of the night.
    
3. Sell Beer - It instantly sounds like a sacrilege to many long-time residents.  But what is worse: having an accountable, experienced  company like Budweiser (a member of the neighborhood to the near-West) set up a booth or two and sell beer to party-goers or, having shop owners (folks not versed in the TABC laws for responsible service) give away refreshments to anyone who comes through the line at the back of their shop? 
   
   It would be better for everyone if the ban on alcohol sales was lifted for this yearly occasion. 
    
   A).  Youths are served as no one is "carding" the people coming through the lines.  The shop owners aren't trained to serve alcohol according to the law.  How can they possibly be expected to do so on this night?
   B).  As unfortunate as it is, some people were entering shops strictly to get the freebies to be had, without any regard for the property or the staff.  As the night wore on, I noticed drink cups leaving water marks on antique furniture and, in several cases, the crash of breakage could be heard as people streamed through these fine shops on their way for another round.  I can't believe it wouldn't benefit the shops (and the merchants) to have the alcohol stand somewhere other than in their stores. 
   C).  It seems that people were left to "do their own thing" when it came to drinking in the streets.  Some folks went so far as to set up lawn furniture on the corners and had coolers on hand, well-stocked with beer and wine.  Not exactly responsible and far from the norm in the Bayou City.  Shouldn't the city take charge of alcohol sales, police the action a bit and, in the process, get the proceeds from a huge profit center like alcohol sales?
   
   
4. More Police - Seriously.  A larger presence in blue would be beneficial.  I am not saying that there were no police on duty.  There were.  But, our little city-within-a-city was not set up for the crowd this year's function drew.  Next year could be even bigger.  With more people, more problems are inevitable.  A more visible police representation makes the party safer and deters problems before they start.
   
   
5. More Shuttles - It would have been great if there were more shuttles and if the stops were more obvious.  Yes, the shuttles were donated. (Thanks goes out to Carey Shuttle and Limo.)  And, yes, there is a limit to what donations may be expected.  But alcohol sales would generate more than enough income to help fund an expanded travel set-up.  White Linen Night is not just one party, it is many.  It is as if there are three festivals in one, as there are different festivities on 19th Street, on Yale Street and Heights Blvd and then on Studewood, with other places scattered here and there in between.  The shuttles are the safest way to travel.   Routes could easily be established through the Heights that would not require travel on the closed streets and done so with minimal inconvenience to the revelers or the neighborhood. Incidentally, closing the main streets would also aid the pedi-cabs attempting to navigate through the sea of people.
   
   
6. More Trash Cans - People don't want to litter, but it seems they did.  The mess will only get bigger as White Linen Night grows.

I had a ball at White Linen Night.  We residents of The Historic Heights like to think of ourselves as citizens of a smaller neighborhood.   And that mentality usually serves us well by creating a closer-knit community.  But, once a year, we should think bigger.  White Linen Night, like The Heights, is booming.  Why not channel that energy rather than stand in its way?

Dungeness Crab at The Boiling Crab

We wanted so much to like this place.  And normally, I don't share negative experiences.  But this one bears some discussion.

We decided to try The Boiling Crab on the West side on Friday.  Though it is part of a chain of restaurants - a major red flag - we were dying for dungeness crab and had read some decent reviews, including a great review by Alison Cook of The Houston Chronicle.  Unfortunately, we had a different experience.

My wife and I arrived about 7:00pm and were quoted a twenty-minute wait.  We were seated well within the twenty minutes and the hostess was efficient.  But, throughout the wait in the very small entry, we had to listen to the hostess telling her friend, another patron, about how she and a friend go to Dave and Buster's and get "the hook-up" on free drinks from the bartender, although they are underage.  That may seem insignificant, but to me it is offensive.  Not only are they stealing and drinking underage, the young lady is bragging about it while working in a restaurant, a very public forum. A complete lack of discretion and class.

When two tables came available at the same time, she called the first name and pointed to an area of the restaurant to her left and told the first couple to pick a table.  She then turned to my wife and I and said, "You can take what's leftover back there" and pointed us in the same direction.  We then had to stand and wait while the first couple moved back and forth between the two tables.  She seated neither of us herself.

Once seated, the table service was quick and friendly.  My wife and I each ordered gumbo (big bowls), but we each had only two shrimp amid a ton of sausage.  The shrimp were fine, but they tasted as if they were added into the gumbo when ordered as opposed to being cooked in the soup.  I realize that is the case in many restaurants - done to keep the seafood from breaking down - but knowing this made it even less tolerable that we each got only two shrimp for $5.99 a bowl.

For dinner, we both ordered a dungeness crab.  The flavors were excellent, but mine was served with three legs missing and one claw (and leg) gone.  Is it house policy to serve crab like this?  (I sent an email asking, but have not yet received a response.) We asked for large crab, and they were small.  Both, according to the check, weighed 1.8 pounds, which is not possible.  My crab was clearly smaller than my wife's and was missing 4 legs!  How could they weigh the same?  Again, not a value at $26.98 each.

They did not offer dessert and we did not ask.  Why prolong the misery?

As advertised, the flavors were great.  Spicy and bold, the recipe delivered as promised.  But the experience as a whole was too inconsistent and, in ways, inexplicable to recommend the place to anyone.  My wife and I drove out from The Heights because we love dungeness crab.  We left feeling as if the restaurant had short-changed itself as much as it had short-changed us.  It was not worth the trip.  We had hoped for so much more.

The Barbecue Inn

All I can say is "Count me Inn!" 

Honestly, with all of the press and accolades that The Barbecue Inn has received over the years, I couldn't add anything new.  A quick Google search will bring dozens upon dozens of hits - but no website - all singing the praises of The Barbecue Inn.  Saying something that hasn't been said about this landmark Houston eatery might be impossible, but I'll definitely chime in.

Located at Crosstimbers and Yale, The Barbecue Inn has been serving The Heights since 1946.  The decor, it seems, has changed little in those 50-plus years, but that simply adds to the charm.  Floor-mounted bar stools line the counter just like the diners of old.   A small window peeks into the kitchen where waitresses (no waiters) hand-write orders and then mount them on a spinning swivel.  No computerized ordering systems is used here.

The menu consists of classic American fare ranging from delicious slow-smoked barbecue and fried gulf shrimp to country-fried chicken and even filet mignon.  The barbecue is served either as dinner or a la carte with moist warm white bread slices.  Just like a picnic or backyard cook-out.  Entrees are served with a generous salad and home-cut fries.  Everything is cooked fresh and served fresh, right down to the pies at dessert.

We sampled the sliced pork barbecue which was excellent with a rich smoky flavor.  The house barbecue sauce was delicious, but the pork was tender and flavorful enough to stand on it's own.  The chicken-fried steak, topped with homemade country gravy, was tender enough to cut with a fork and the fried shrimp were big and juicy beneath a crisp, crunchy breading.

Our waitress, Beth, was cheerful and helpful, letting us in on menu highlights like which salad dressings were house-made and offering to make the sliced pork an appetizer since we intended to share it.  A relative newcomer when compared to the other ladies on staff, Beth could not have been a better ambassador for the restaurant. "I've been working here for a year and a half and I've never had a bad meal," she declared.  An endorsement far greater than the one I am writing here.

I have lived in Houston for nearly 30 years and had not heard of the Barbecue Inn until my mother-in-law suggested it a few weeks ago. 

To her I say, "Thanks, Mom." 

To the rest of you, I say, "Try The Barbecue Inn."  If you haven't been there yet, you'll be thanking me, too.

Note: The Barbecue Inn is closed Sundays and Mondays, so plan your visit accordingly.  Happy Eating!

L-O-L-A, Lola!

Ken Bridge is at it again.

The Heights restaurant genius (Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro, Pink's Pizza) is up to his usual tricks with a new venture which should add some culinary depth to the old neighborhood. 

Lola. 

Lola is located in the 1100 Block of Yale at the intersection with 11th Street.  Sitting on the NE corner, Lola will fill the space across the street from the post office that has been empty for many months.  (I can't tell you how many times my wife and I have commented to each other that it would be a great spot for a restaurant)  For years, Eckerd Drugs made the corner it's home, but the building was vacated when Eckerd closed and it fell into disrepair. 

Recently, however, the structure was purchased and fully renovated.  A health club has already moved into the North corner becoming the building's first tenant.

Mr. Bridge's vision is a full-service restaurant serving three squares a day to the neighborhood folks. "Breakfast, lunch and dinner will be served seven days a week." he states.  A welcome change in an area where most places close on Sunday.

Fresh, local ingredients and on-the-spot preparation will be key, as in Mr. Bridge's other ventures.

The star at breakfast will be omelets "made-to-order" for patrons who will have a dazzling list of ingredient choices ranging from broccoli to prosciutto and everything in between.  Lunch and dinner will feature American comfort foods at "small-town" prices right here in the big city.

Mr. Bridge hopes to obtain a club license, much like Shade on 19th, so that guests will be able to enjoy an adult beverage with a meal by joining the club rather than having to carry a bottle along with them to dinner.  

An opening date is not yet firm, but Ken and his team can be seen daily working to get the space ready for business and the sign is already up announcing the new diner to passersby.

In addition to being a landmark hit song from the 70's, Lola, it appears, will soon be a landmark diner in The Heights.  I will be first in line.

Penzey's Is The Spice Of Life In The Heights

In The Old World, spices were traded as commodities often as precious as gold.  Considered a luxury to the rich, the valuable spices brought a high price and were shipped round the globe from The New World back to Europe and from East to West. 

Today you can find that same reverence in a foodie treasure land called Penzey's Spices.

Penzey's Spices, located at 516 W. 19th Street (corner of Nicholson), even feels a bit like the hold of a cargo ship.  As you walk in, you see the spices cradled in wooden packing crates stacked on the floor and stored in simple glass jars.

But make no mistake.  Penzey's in the Heights, one of 42 locations nationwide, is no common spice shop.  The herbs and spices are truly showcased, usually in both whole and ground form, and the aroma of freshness is powerful and pleasantly intoxicating. (Herbs, by the way, are the leafy part of the plant, often dried but also fresh. Spices are the seeds, roots, fruits, bark or other vegetative plant substances harvested for the unique flavors they hold within.)

Walking around the store you can open lock-jars and inhale the true fragrances of the bounty within that are often lost or ruined in the versions sitting, sometimes for weeks, on the grocery store shelves.  I found myself giggling at the soft, supple, unexpectedly friendly nose of the whole cumin seed.  A spice I've often found to be overpowering in the store-bought ground variety.  The fennel, light and playful, reminded me of the black licorice my father used to eat, and the crystallized ginger smelled of sweet candy.  If you have ever tasted the difference between store-bought and fresh-ground pepper, I need say no more.

Founder Bill Penzey, an obvious foodie himself, has, with the help of a fine and very friendly local staff, built a playground for food lovers right in the Heights.  Not only does the store offer nearly every herb and spice conceivable at prices that are lower than your local grocer, but also an array of simple cookbooks, gift boxes, spice mixes and other tools and toys to tantalize the imagination of any gourmand.

I have lived in the Heights nearly two years and just today found myself venturing in for the first time.  Clearly it won't be the last.  Penzey's is a real chef's resource and a fun adventure for anyone who fancies themselves a devoted foodie.  Treat yourself to a visit.

(Of course, if you can't make it to the Heights to shop there is an on-line store available to satisfy your culinary and gifting needs.  Aromas not included.)

Benjy's - In The Village

Benjy's in the Rice Village was simply a fantastic experience.  I could leave it at that and avoid gushing, but you know I won't.

I decided to try Benjy's for the first time last week.  It has been a landmark of the Village for years, but for whatever reason, I had never made it over there.  (My wife had been on several occasions, but I had somehow missed those opportunities.)  We were planning a dinner with some very dear friends to celebrate our marriage and I was looking for a place.  I thought it was the perfect time to try Benjy's.  I was right.

Although there is a recently-opened Benjy's on Washington, I wanted to try the original first.  And from the very first phone call, Benjy's, located on Dunstan in the Rice Village, was first class. 

I called on Thursday to make a reservation for Friday evening.  Four people at 6:30.  I knew it was short notice and was hopeful that they would have a spot.  (Although 6:30 sounds early, parties at this time can be difficult to accommodate if the restaurant has a heavy evening in the books.)  I explained to the young lady, Mary Ellen, that it was my first time and that I was celebrating and hoping to impress my guests.  These are things an experienced host or hostess will pick up on.  First-time guests mean first impressions, which we know are lasting.  Guests who are looking to impress are in a way trusting the restaurant to do it for them.  In truth, I was asking for special treatment without asking for special treatment.  I was not disappointed.

I arrived at Benjy's about 15 minutes early on Friday.  The staff was there to open the door and once inside the smartly attired greeters were extremely friendly and very well organized.  They had my reservation and I was seated immediately, instead of being told to wait until my party was complete, which has become more and more the norm.

Although I was a first-time guest, I was taken to a very nice table with a lovely view of the dining room.  It was not too close to the door and was out of the way of general traffic.  Again, I was pleased. 

The dining room is very comfortable with a nice mix of tables and booths to satisfy any desire.  The lighting was cool, but not dark, creating a very comfortable atmosphere, perfect for dining.

I was quickly greeted by Mark, who was to be our server.  I explained that my guests would be straggling in one by one as they got off work and he seemed not the leased bit ruffled or antsy about this fact, which was welcoming.  As my wife and guests arrived, he came by to greet each person individually, although we ordered nothing until we were complete.  Once we were, we easily chatted for 30 minutes before ordering a bottle of Champagne.  Mark was accommodating and patient throughout.

It turns out that I had worked with one of the managers, Kerry Paulie, in the past.  He came by the table and met my guests and was genuine and friendly.  He even went so far as to send out four individually plated Goat Cheese Cakes, which were a delightful homage to today's ever-popular crab cakes.  They were seasoned with sun-dried tomato, coated with pistachio and served over a salad of carrot and golden raisins. They were simply delicious and a wonderful, unexpected treat.

We chatted and chatted and Mark was always present but never intrusive, picking up on our needs through eye contact and instinctive non-verbal cues.  Another hallmark of fine service.

When we finally ordered and were served dinner, we were blown away.

The menu, driven by Chef Drew Wilson, is a wonderful mix of comfort and quality.  Contemporary American food prepared with passion and care in a way that allows the ingredients to shine through without being lost or muddled.  A type of respect for the food that is a joy to find, but often missing in today's busy world.

To begin, we each tried something different.  From the Butter Lettuce Salad to the Spicy Tuna Tartar or from the Pan-Seared Pork Dumplings to the Mexican Chicken Soup, we were all delighted.

Dinner was equally tasty.  The Wood-Grilled Pork Chops were excellent with a rich and savory apple glaze.  My wife thoroughly enjoyed Milton's Warm 10-Vegetable Salad.  Our guests were equally satisfied with the Buffalo Hangar Steak and the Pan-Seared Sea Scallops.  Compliments all around.

At dessert, Kerry again out-did himself and treated us to Grandma's Fudge Brownie (which apparently Grandma Levit, herself, still makes daily) and a Peach Cobbler featuring perfect seasonal peaches.  Both desserts were topped with real vanilla ice cream.  They were a fine conclusion to a sparkling meal.

Although we occupied Mark's table (Table 32, I believe) all night, he never left us for a minute.  We never wanted for a thing and never had to turn our heads to find him.  Down to the smallest details, like freshening our ice waters when they began to melt away, he was professional and spot-on.  He allowed us to enjoy our company and the meal, which made the dining all the better.

My experience at Benjy's has left me longing to return and eager to try the second incarnation on Washington, which promises to be more of the same.  The menus are slightly different, I am told, but the warmth and professionalism of the staff are a common language spoken at both locales.

I have not met Benjy Levit, but will extend a hand of genuine congratulations on a job well done, if I do.

 

Block7

The new kid on the wine block is Block7WineCompany, but with all it has to offer I am confident Block7 will be the Big Kid on the block in very short order.  

"When it comes to wine, I tell people to throw away the vintage charts and invest in a corkscrew.  The best way to learn about wine is the drinking." 

This Alexis Lichine quote featured on the Block7 website is perhaps the best summary of what's happening inside the building at 720 Shepherd.

Recently, I was lucky enough to be given a sneak preview of the facility by Amber Roussel, Director of Marketing And Events.  Believe me when I tell you it is an impressive venture of quality and artistic style.

Located just south of Washington Avenue, Block7 has converted the old Western Appliance building into a true wine lover's mecca.  With 8,000 square feet of space, Block7 will offer Houstonians a place to buy, learn and enjoy.

Nearly 3,000 feet of space are devoted to a climate-controlled walk-in wine warehouse featuring 500 hand-selected wines from around the globe.  The wines, Amber boasts, will be retail priced as competitively as anywhere in the city, "even Spec's."  The bottle price is the same whether you enjoy it on premise or take it home.  And never a corking fee!

Additionally, Block7 offers a place to learn and taste.  Adjacent to the warehouse is a 35-foot stainless steel bar and tasting area for people to gather and sip on featured wines and enjoy complimentary aperitivo snacks.  Plus, look forward to free tastings on Saturdays, as well as educational classes scheduled regularly to help bridge the gap between what we know and what we taste. 

Beyond the casual space are tables for full-service dining surrounded by the modern stylings of some of Houston's best artists found through a collaboration with the non-profit spacetaker.org.  The first artist featured is Matt Messenger whose collection will run through August.  Live music featuring homegrown musicians like Peekaboo Theory and Come See My Dead Person add to the eclectic feel. 

Further still, there is a very large private event space nestled behind the kitchen that boasts availability for upwards of 150 guests.  Reservations for fall and winter events are available now.

Wow!

In converting the space, the crew at Block7 focused on maintaining the historical integrity and warehouse feel of the building by utilizing nearly everything that was left behind.  Old file cabinets are used as  checkout stands in the retail space.  The team uncovered some wonderful photos of Old Houston that they have had restored and will feature throughout the space along with pieces of modern sculpture from Houston area artists that enhance the industrial mood.  The stainless steel wine racks were custom designed by Alberto Bonomi,  who is also responsible for the design of the impressive tasting bar.

Sommelier, Eric Hastings, most recently from Denver has come aboard and along with Loren Root will lead the highly trained wine service team.  The focus is on knowing the wines on hand.  "Each and every wine has a story," as Amber states, "and the team will know them."  That is why they will have 500 wines as opposed to 2,000.  But, rest assured, if you want something specific, Block7 will be able to find it for you.

Wine tours and travel are also a big part of the picture at Block7 with Michael Housewright leading the way. In fact, Block7 is Texas' first and only full-service wine tour operator.  The first trip is scheduled to launch this fall with an expertly guided six-day trip through the Wine Country of Italy.

At the helm in the kitchen is Miguel Hernandez, formerly of Rainbow Lodge.  The emphasis here is on the "slow" food philosophy and regional fare from the Texas Gulf Coast and Texas' own farms.  Fresh seafood and local ingredients will highlight, but the All-Star of the menu promises to be the Block7 Burger made from 21-day dry-aged beef.  The best in town, I am told, but priced like a burger, not a T-bone steak! 

The vision is grand at Block7.  The philosophy is sound and the investment in quality and education are obvious from the moment you speak to the people inside. 

A soft opening is planned and people have already begun wandering in to take a peek.  If you are passing by, stop in and see for yourself what is new on the Block.

Dr. Duncan - Heights Hospital For Animals

If you have a dog or any pet you know how important choosing the right veterinarian is.  We Americans tend to treat our animals like children and place as much importance on choosing the right pet doctor as we do choosing a pediatrician.  We want someone we can trust, someone who understands our connection to our beloved.  We want someone who cares.

Recently my wife and I decided to adopt a puppy.  No small decision, really.

I have always had dogs.  (My parents showed Great Danes and my uncle showed Rottweilers.  I have also had German Shepherds and Chows.)  But, my wife had never had a pet.  Well, she had a gerbil many years ago, but it's hard to bond with a gerbil, so I don't really count that.  Anyway, it was a leap of faith for her in many ways.  Additionally, we had promised the kids a pet when we moved into the house and that was some twenty months ago, so it was about time we thought. 

Obviously, I had owned mostly pure breed dogs.  However, my son, who hopes to be a vet and is a budding conservationist, was a big proponent of adoption.  I myself had spent a summer working at the SPCA as a kid and after seeing the dogs sometimes meet an unfortunate end, I did not need too much convincing that rescue was the right option.  After a bit of research, I found a wonderful adoption agency called Pup Squad.

That is where we found our boy.  A German Shepherd mix (maybe Terrier?) who did not say two words his first night at home.  We named him Jackson, after the ground-breaking and controversial artist Jackson Pollack.  A fitting namesake for this little firecracker it turns out.  Since that first night he has become much more assertive claiming our house as his own.

Recently, it was time for his first visit to the vet.  He needed follow up shots to the ones administered by the adoption agency.  Plus, we had noticed that he had a few common puppy problems and needed a general physical, if not for his peace of mind, then for ours.

I wasn't sure who to call.  It has been so long since I have had a dog that my old veterinarian had passed away some years ago.  But, I had driven by Heights Hospital for Animals at 333 20th Avenue on dozens of occasions since moving in nearby and went with my instincts when I called them last week. 

My guts were good.  Dr. Duncan and his staff are awesome.

I called late in the afternoon, but they were able to see me that day.  When I spoke to Stephanie in the initial phone call she referred to Jackson as my "kid" and I was sold.  When I got to the office, I was equally impressed.  A large, clean (and clean smelling) facility with comforts for both owners and pets.  The entire staff was friendly and accommodating.  Some were exercising the boarders and others were tending to patients. 

From first contact you can tell these folks care about and understand animals.  Everyone goes out of their way to make owners and pets relax and make what is often imagined as a stressful experience easy and pleasant. 

The doctor, Dr. Duncan, is a tall, disarming fellow who seems to understands animals and people, as well.   The doctor is honest and open about treatment options from heartworms to hookworms to fleas.  I felt comfortable asking questions and felt even more sure that I was getting good honest answers, rather than a spiel or a sales pitch. 

Whats more important was the thorough, compassionate attention given to Jackson.  My puppy was at once relaxed with the doctor and staff, which is really not typical from what we've seen when we've introduced Jack to folks at home. 

They say dogs are a good judge of character and can sense what people are really about.  If that is the case then Jackson's acceptance was all the proof that I needed that I was in the right place.

Further still, they called a few days later to check on my boy and his progress.  A phone call may seem a small gesture, but it means big things to us, the concerned parents.

One thing I think I understand is that people are as loyal to their vets as they are to their own doctors.  If you have a pet and a vet that you love and trust, then by all means don't fix what isn't broken.  But, if you don't have a steady vet or if you have recently adopted or are thinking about it and find yourself looking for a dog doc, I give my highest marks to Dr. Duncan and the people at Heights Hospital For Animals.

Barnaby's Cafe

If you have lived inside the loop for any period of time then you are no stranger to Barnaby's.  A true gem of a restaurant.  Casual, comfortable and inviting.  The menu is a variety of home-style favorites mixed with a genuine consciousness of good health and quality.

My wife and I used to frequent the Midtown (W. Gray) location, but since moving to the Heights we tend to visit the River Oaks location most often since it is just a straight shot down Shepherd.  Everyone seems to have a favorite.  Especially folks who visit the Original location (604 Fairview) and Baby Baby Barnaby's which is right next door (602 Fairview) but specializes in a fantastic breakfast.  The restaurant is small and always hoppin' and early morning dining (and people watching) is almost a rite of passage for Inner Loopers.  Now, Barnaby's has expanded across the border, outside the Loop on Woodway. 

The name comes from the name of the owner's childhood pet sheepdog and the puppy motif is prevalent in each store.  Paper menus and a seat yourself mentality (when not on a wait) lend to the comfortable at home atmosphere.

The service is always quick and friendly and the menu is high quality and high quantity.  The guacamole is superb, but you'll need a friend to share the generous portion.  The salads are always extremely fresh and definitely large enough to be a meals in themselves.  I tend to get one of the juicy, housemade burgers, but there is plenty to chose from including cold sandwiches, hot entrees and vegetarian selections as well. 

If you are in the mood, the wine list is small, but well rounded with a remarkably agreeable price range.

The place is well staffed, well managed and delightfully consistent whether dining in or taking out.  If you haven't tried Barnaby's you owe it to yourself.  Whatever the neighborhood, you won't be disappointed.

Innovative Dentists Of Houston - Dr. Ney Neshan

I found a dentist!  I realize it seems contrary to be excited over any aspect of dental work, but I have been looking long and hard for a regular dentist and I finally found one!

I told you that I would fill you in as I became acclimated to my new surroundings here in the Heights and found new providers and purveyors local to my new digs, and this is another brick in the wall.

Unfortunately for me, the search for an excellent dentist goes back well before my move to the Heights.  I haven't had a dentist I really trusted in a decade.  (Dr. Shere, aside.  But he is an oral surgeon and not a general dentist so I won't include him here.)

Fortunately, my new doctor offices is in my new backyard.  Located on 20th Street in the Heights Medical Tower, Dr. Ney Neshan of Innovative Dentists of Houston is my new tooth doctor of choice.

Due to my own neglect, I recently had a root canal and crown as well as a perio-scaling (yes, it had been a while).  But, when life gives you lemons...go to Dr. Neshan's office for lemonade.

The office itself is serene and calming.  The staff is friendly and helpful from the front desk to the assisting staff.  They go out of their way to make you relaxed and comfortable, even providing blankets for patients who feel a chill.  The personnel seem genuinely concerned about you as a patient and are frank about your dental health and honest about the different options available and what the pros and cons of each are.  That is exactly what I want in a dentist.

If you have a great dentist then by all means stick with 'em, but if you are in the market for a dental doc, I would suggest you give Dr. Neshan an interview.

Tecate Mexican Restaurant & Cantina

This is a good place.  Simple words, but not really a simple place. 

From the outside, Tecate Mexican Restaurant and Cantina is unassuming, to say the least.  You might have been by and not really noticed.  I probably drove by the place five or six times (there on the corner of 27th and Ella across from my favorite Lowe's) before my wife pointed it out.  With short daily hours it seems we had been passing by when the kitchen was closed, but on this day there were cars in the lot. 

My wife had heard good things about the food, and being junior Taqueria aficianado's, we needed to investigate. 

The place is small and minimally decorated as with most authentic Mexican restaurants, but the staff was there at the door and offered a quick welcome.  We were seated at the nicest available table and were promptly met with chips and salsa both of which were refilled promptly throughout dinner.

The Margarita's are served in small wine glasses, but they are delicious and deliver the goods.  Don't be fooled.  Tart and sweet, they disappear too quickly.  Use caution.

The food, too, is very good.  We arrived at the restaurant with the recommendation to try the seafood soup.  Our server also raved on the soup and it's fresh preparation.  While we didn't follow those orders, what we had was very good. 

The appetizer Shrimp Vera Cruz is spectacular.  Jumbo shrimp sauteed with red bells and onion in a thick tomato roux.  The torillas on the side could make it a meal.  The Ground Beef Taco Salad was alos very good.  I like to order this salad in Mexican places to see how they treat it differently.  Some places treat their salads like dishes in themsleves, other places serve salads as an afterthought.  Tecate does it right.  It is fresh, well portioned and served with a sassy housemade vinaigrette, a very pleasant surprise from a kitchen with some obvious talent.  My wife had the Enchiladas Mexico.  Another smash.  We didn't even need a togo box.  Unusual for us and Mexican food.

There is no website for Tecate, the restaurant, that I can find but a quick google search will give you some leads on directions and location.  The hours seem to vary with early closing being the norm so call first.  713-868-5232.  Search Tecate Restaurante Ella Houston or just click my link.

If that doesn't work hop on Ella Boulevard, head toward 27th Street and look for these signs...

The Pearl Bar

The Pearl Bar on Washington is not a new place any more.  In fact, in the short year that it has been open it has gone from new kid on the block to the neighborhood hangout that goes back before cool.  This year marks the second in a row that Pearl Bar has won the Houston Press Award for Best New Bar.

Located about halfway between downtown and the Westcott circle, Pearl Bar is the perfect spot for the upwardly mobile casual night out.  This is not some foofy wine or martini bar that is selling as much pretense as it potables.  No, this is a clean, well-run take on the sports bars we have all loved for years minus the loud mouths and sports jerseys.

Pool tables, shuffleboard, ping pong, a great jukebox and 4 large flat screen TV's to be seen from any where in the bar.  A large bar with plenty of room indoors plus a great patio to take in Washington Avenue's revitalized nightlife.  A full bar, well staffed with friendly bartenders and a great team of floor personnel keeping the tables clean and bussed.  Oh, and of course, the restrooms -  large and clean - a detail often forgotten in bars. 

Whether you are just hangin' out and hidin' out or looking for a full blown get down, Pearl Bar is a great spot on the reborn Washinton strip.

Napa County Line by Robert Sinskey Vineyard

Robert Sinskey is likely a name you will recognize when talking about Napa Valley wines.  After all, this self-proclaimed "contrarian" vintner has been producing notable wines in both Napa and Sonoma for over 20 years.  Unschooled in viticulture, Sinskey followed his father into winemaking as a way of "helping out" and was quickly seduced into a lifelong passion.

The Sinskey approach is contrarian in that it puts land and earth over sales and profit.  Quality over quantity.  Both in the process and the produce.

The result is an amazing collection of supple and vibrant wines, especially the Point Of View collection which was crafted to express the very philosophies of the vineyard and the vintners.

Napa County Line is a subtly robust red.  A 2005 cuvee of 80% lush Merlot fortified with a backbone of 20% Cabernet.  Grown near the sea in Sinskey's Carneros Vineyards of Napa Valley, the 100% organic grapes were crafted into a lot of just 48 barrels.

We served this wine at a dinner party with roast beef tenderloin and found it to be a perfect match.  The richness of the beef and the spicy ginger and garlic in the marinade brought out a light and playful side of the wine that was a delight to discover.  Open it just a few minutes before dinner is served to give it just a tiny head start.

Robert Sinskey wines are available throughout the city in shops and restaurants, but I found this one at Sam's Wholesale Club for just $15!  (A real value) 

Pick up a bottle and we'll compare notes.

Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro

If you like Asian food and you live in the Heights, you really owe it to yourself to try The Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro.  Located next to the Mattress Firm at 11th and Shepherd, Dragon Bowl is Asian fusion in the Heights.  My wife and I have been ordering take-out from this place since our first night in our home, literally eating dinner from paper boxes while sitting at a table of cardboard boxes.

Dragon Bowl just doesn't disappoint.  The menu consists of fresh, high quality dishes prepared with the best ingredients.  This is not Panda Express.  This is real food. 

I especially like the "Build Your Own Bowl."  For $9 you can create your own combination of chicken, beef or pork (add $2 for shrimp) plus any  sauce with either rice or noodles and all the fresh ingredients you like.  Add an order of Crispy Dragon Rolls (5 for $4) and you are set.  Or, for something lighter, you can peruse the selections from the sushi bar.

The dining room is small (counter-service only) and always busy during peak hours.  I suggest you call ahead and order for take-out, but if you prefer to order in person, just stop by.  You will not be bored watching the small crew working fast and furiously behind the line while you wait for your order.  You can grab a bottle of Sake or another beverage to take home, as well.  Which is nice. 

The Dragon Bowl is a one-of-a-kind, not a franchise, owned by the owner of Pink's Pizza, another Heights staple.  The Dragon Bowl is clean and the service is fast and friendly.  Plus, the staff takes care to get your order right.  Every time.  From the telephone to the take-out bag to your kitchen.

If you haven't tried Dragon Bowl, I suggest you give it a go.  I'll bet you won't be disappointed.

Cantina 1308

This is another El Tiempo incarnation, so it could be listed in "Places To Eat," but I find the place best suited for margaritas and parties.  (Get as loud as you want.)  Yes, the tenderloin fajitas are super, but the margarita's are legendary.

This location, once La Jaliescience, a local taqueria with quite a history, is the third El Tiempo after the Richmond and Washington Avenue locations.  Although I have spent plenty a night at the original on Richmond, I think this is my favorite.

The bar is the most comfortable of the three.  The patios (one in rear and one in front) are a bit small, but the casual midtown locals don't seem to mind.  The actual dining room is separated from the bar for a quieter meal. (But who goes for Tex-Mex looking for quiet?)  The food is consistently good and, honestly, some of the highest quality Tex-Mex available. 

The service on my two visits (once on a weeknight and once on a weekend) has been very friendly and attentive.  The restrooms were clean (amazing, actually, if you ever saw the old place) although employees screaming on their cell phones is a major turn off.

Priced a bit higher than most Tex-Mex in Houston, the quality ingredients and upscale environment are worth the extra expense.  Call your friends, get there early (it gets crowded) and find an excuse to cut loose. 

'Tis The Season

Crawfish Season, of course.  This is "the best time of the year" if you are a "bug" lover.  Spring.  The bugs are big and getting bigger.  The water is boiling.  The air is warm.  The beer is cold.  This is paradise if you live South of the Red River.

I love crawfish.  Love 'em.  I'm talking last-meal-on-death-row-love.  I would wager that I have eaten tons of crawdaddies in my lifetime.  Tons.  I never get tired of 'em.  In fact, having crawfish is more than eating a meal to me, it's like getting a fix.  Truly.  I can literally feel the salt and spices coursing into my veins.  And I'm all good.  Wash 'em down with a cold one and taste satisfaction.  Ah.

Now, I am not a Cajun.  (I'm from Ohio.  Crawdads are bait there.)  What's more, I've never even worked in a true crawfish house.  So, I won't try to tell you that I know how they should be done.  But, I will say that crawfish are a lot like barbeque.  Everyone has a different recipe, a different secret.  If you tried 20 cajun joints you'd have 20 different flavors.  Some sweeter.  Some spicier.  Some juicy and some dry sprinkled.  And each boil tastes different.  Not just from day to day, but from one batch to the next.

For that very reason, I can't really answer the question I am so often asked, which is "Who has the best crawfish?"  Even within my own family debate rages on this topic.  I can tell you, however, the places that my family goes most often during The Season.

1. Mardi Gras Grill   This place used to be Floyd's.  As in, Floyd Landry.  I've been eating here for 15 plus years.  Donnie, the bartender, has been there for 14.   The place has changed names over the years, but the recipe is still the same.  I like the spicy hot flavor and the dry rub salt that is dusted over each batch.  The size of the bugs can be inconsistent, but the flavor is great.  The rest of the menu provides dependable and authentic cajun favorites.  Try the dark roux crawfish bisque.  The best in town.  The atmosphere is dominated by the staff and the regulars, for better or worse.  As for service, I say sit at the bar.  (Think -  icehouse with a full bar and better menu.)  I usually eat here when my wife is out of town and I am on my own.
2. Ragin Cajun   Another Houston institution.  We go to the original location on Richmond.  This is my daughter's favorite.  The crawfish are delicious, but not quite as spicy as I like.  They are consistently the largest in town and always of high quality.  But then, this is a Mandola restaurant, so what would you expect?  The other menu offerings are quite tasty, as well.  The restaurant is always clean and the staff is friendly.  Easily, the best managed of the three on this list.  The only drawback is the counter service.  I prefer to be waited on.  But that's me.
3. Cajun Corner   Way out west on Bellaire Blvd. in Asiatown, you'll find a different style of crawfish boil.  In fact, they may be steamed and not boiled at all, as that is how this restaurant used to prepare the live lobster and dungeness crab that are no longer available.  A tragedy in itself.  But the crawfish are available in cajun or spicy garlic (that's right, the cajun ones are milder) and they are worth the drive.  Asians, too, have been eating crawfish for years and it shows in this recipe.  I don't know what they do differently from the Cajuns, but the flavors are amazing.  The rest of the menu, save the fried rice, is suspect and the service is slow.  The restrooms are functional at best.  Normally, this place would probably make another type of list, but when it comes to crawfish this place is lights out.  Incidentally, this is my wife and son's favorite.  Hey, it is all about the flavors.

Try these places and let me know what you think.  Or, if you have a different favorite, send me a link and I'll try it out.  After all, I'm always looking for bigger, better bugs. 

Shade

Shade is certainly not a new restaurant to the Heights.  In fact, it is not new to my wife and I.  We had been to Shade once before moving into the neighborhood.  I couldn't say when, but it had been a while. We had gone on the recommendation of a client of mine who had gushed about the burger.  When we got there, we were told the burger was a lunch only item. We were disappointed.  The food we had was very good, but since we lived in the medical center, we never made it back.

But, after starting this blog, I was really itching to try it again.  We did the other night.  We were not disappointed.  The food was very tasty and the wine list also showed depth.  Our server was informed, attentive and accommodating.  The atmosphere was simple and comfortable.  A great place to dine.

My wife and I were seated at a nice table despite not having  a reservation.  We were greeted promptly.

The beer list was small but varied.  Belhaven was my pre-dinner selection.  A Scottish half liter served with a pub glass.  Nice.

The wine list also showed variety and intuition.  We found St. Supery Virtu for $48.  Delighted, we shared a bottle with dinner.  It is fantastic and very well priced.  We also observed the wine buyer, or we assumed so from his comments, serving a tasting of Coturri to the table next to ours.  Unfortunately, we were not offered a sample, but I have worked with the Coturri family's products before and they are excellent and frankly, rarely seen here in town.  A lure, quite surely.

We started by sharing the Campechana.  The lump crab meat was huge and fresh.  The shrimp were cooked perfectly and the plantain chips, sliced lengthwise, were much lighter than many places.  Well done!

The soups we sampled were a simple chicken soup full of chicken and vegetables and a tomato soup, roasted, with a pepper oil, I believe, as garnish.  Both were delicious.

The entrees were very nice, as well.  I had the Pork Chop which was juicy and cooked just past medium.  Excellent.  My wife had the vegetable plate.  Although she enjoyed the selections, especially the heirloom tomatoes, the plate was, in some strange way, too large and heavy for a vegetable plate.  The portions were copious and the inclusion of fried vegetables seemed too weighty for this application.  In my vision, a vegetable plate should be light and modestly portioned, a reflection of the philosophy of the dish.  You may disagree.

No dessert was ordered as we had an evening engagement.

The server was skilled at her profession.  She was a bit stretched.  There were two servers covering the dining room which consists of close to 25 tables.  But she was not flustered and we never felt lost.  She was informative and let us dictate our own pace.  She was friendly without being intrusive.  Her uniform was not crisp.  The blue jeans as a uniform choice do not bother me, but a crisp shirt is a must.  She never told us her name.

The restaurant was clean and comfortable.  The bar is dimly lit with a view of sublimely quiet 19th street, while the dining room is open and lit for comfortable dining.  The restrooms were clean and attractive.

There is no music.  I am not sure about that idea.  When a restaurant is busy, the noises themselves create an exciting ambient energy, but with reduced overall traffic and less ambient noise, a silent dining room can seem austere or stand-offish to some diners.

Overall, we really enjoyed the visit and will return soon.  The food and service are very good and the location, for us, cannot be beat.

Missed Opporunities

Raia's Italian Market

We dropped in on the spur of the moment.  We had been watching the place, Raia's Italian Market, come along and our interest was piqued, besides, I had heard different things about the place while working. 

It was Friday and we did not have a reservation and the place was on a short wait.  I am assuming it was the owners who were on premise and participating in the evening, which was nice to see.  We were offered drinks while we waited and were seated before finishing them.  

It's a quaint little place with a marketplace atmosphere. You can buy Italian meats and cheeses and anti pasti at the counter for take home or you can enjoy a meal at the store.  Shelves for browsing and shopping are set amidst the sufficiently sized dining room.  The patio was unused due to weather.

The wine list was small but well conceived, offering a nice variety of Mediterranean wines at good prices.

The food was quite nice and seem to be house prepared, for the most part.  The calamari was quite good.  The Rotunno pizza was not so great. 

Once seated our service was slow and well, not smooth.  The server was new to the store and new to service, I assume.  His uniform was not crisp, but it fit in with his colleagues.  He was friendly, but lost in what he was doing.  And we were in a corner, just out of view of anyone who could help.

We ordered a round of drinks, of which, only one came.  When I asked if we could get a half order of Calamari, something every other family owned Italian restaurant in this city would do, we were told unceremoniously "No."  Our server never offered to check with the kitchen.  At least lie to me and tell me my request is special enough for managerial consideration.  Instead, simply "No." 

The restroom was clean, but the hall leading to it was teeming with dry goods.  Not in an organized, intentional fashion, but more in a "put it anywhere" type of style.

Lastly, we observed a manager or shift leader smoking in the parking lot while on duty.  Not good.  we almost didn't go in.

The owners were there, the people were friendly and the food was pretty good.  All positive in concept.  But the details missed amount to an opportunity lost on us.

Some of the issues, I am sure, stem from the place's rapid growth and management's struggle to keep up, but there were many, many details being missed.  Meanwhile, there are more choices coming to Washington Ave.

After a few months, I imagine many of the kinks will be worked out and the service will be much smoother.  The place is worth a try, but go on a slow night or try takeout, because the food was worth the visit.

Otilia's Mexican Restaurant

I was looking for a casual Mexican place the other day.  My wife had been craving Mexican since she had been out of town and so we were trying to find someplace new.  She had heard of this place on Long Point behind Ikea.  Yes, behind Ikea. 

First, looking for Mexican food for me is a little challenging.  Only authentic Mexican will do.  I have worked in Houston kitchens all my life so I have grown up on real Mexican and Latin food.  Eating what the cooks are eating.  So, all the chains and Tex-Mex places are out. 

Second, I am a service nut.  I like to go places where the servers care about your experience and take pride in their job.  I want to dine.  I want to feel welcome.  Unfortunately, many of the small places in town, Mexican or otherwise, miss that part altogether.

I googled a bit and found Otilia's on Long Point.  This must be the place, I thought.

It was.

We have been twice.  Once on Friday as a couple and once on a Saturday with the kids and a friend of theirs.  Both times the staff were very friendly and quick with a greeting.  The restaurant is clean with a nice large patio for sitting and sipping.  The place is busy and well trafficked without being bustling or crowded.  The restrooms were clean on both visits.  We were thanked by busboys and other servers as we left.

The food was very tasty from the salsa to the Huevos ala Mexicana to Chile Rellano.  The shrimp in the cocktail (weekends only) were slightly overcooked, but the sauce was good.  The poblano soup is better than the tortilla.  House Maragarita's were light and would be great in summer.

The service runs slow (both floor and kitchen) when the place gets busy. They seem a bit understaffed, but you will not feel forgotten or marooned.  Once they get you first drinks out, they find a rhythm and the flow is nice.

The patio is quite comfortable.  If you sit inside, I suggest sitting in the front dining room along the left wall, if you can, as the back seems a bit sterile.

Overall, I like this place.  Good, authentic Mexican food with friendly, attentive people.  That is win-win.