www.fredeatshouston.com

Berripop and BW3 Coming To Washington Ave.

One of the best things about the renewal of Washington Avenue over the past several years is the fact that most of the new restaurants and clubs have sprung up in old buildings.  What is old is made new again.

Branch Water Tavern was the old Cue and Cushion.  Pearl and Salt occupy what was formerly office/retail space.  Block 7 is in the Western Appliance building and the Southwest Muffler Shop is being renovated into Phil's Barbecue.  These are just a few examples.  Like Phoenix rising, Washington has been born anew out of its own ash.

But, amongst the many renovations and refurbishments along the Washington Corridor, there are several projects that are completely new construction.  One of them is 3939 Washington which is a mixed-use building that looms over the South side of Washington.

I find it fitting somehow that the first restaurant tenants announced in this freshly-built behemoth will both be chain stores.  Not unique to our neck of the woods.

The new additions to the Washington culinary landscape will be Buffalo Wild Wings and Berripop. 

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Buffalo Wild Wings is a ubiquitous national-chain restaurant and sports bar characterized by mediocre wings and service. You know the place.  Not my favorite, but the one in Rice Village seems to do pretty brisk business, so I imagine this will be a hit, too.

Berripop, is a highly-regarded, Houston-based frozen yogurt chain with stores in upscale neighborhoods around town.  Which is a good sign.

But the company boasts on it's website that it is "in the process of aggressively expanding" and is actively recruiting franchisees.  Of the five currently-operating locations, three are "recently opened."

My experience in restaurants tells me that rapid expansion can be a very risky strategy.  Juggling is hard enough, but when you add too many balls - or too many jugglers - too quickly, it becomes nearly impossible.  But, there are exceptions to every rule.

Honestly, I've not yet had a Berripop.  The place may just be a hit in the neighborhood.

To date, neither company has begun build-out on their units, but both should be open by summer.

RIP - Glen Bell

You may not know it from the headline, but a restaurant pioneer has died today.

MSNBC reports that Glen W. Bell, Jr., founder of Taco Bell, has passed away at the age of 86 in California.

While, it is known that I am a champion of independent restaurants, I can't deny my patronage of Bell's chain stores.  Or it's impact on my life.  Who among us would? 

There was a time in my life when the "fourth meal" was my favorite meal of the day.  No kidding.  It fact, the late night drive-through is almost a rite of passage for today's youth, it would seem.

Thoughts and prayers go out to Mr. Bell's family and I extend my condolences. 

Mr. Bell, Thank you.  You will be missed.

Carter and Cooley

I first wandered into the Carter and Cooley Deli located at the corner of 19th and Ashland on December 5th of last year. 

I remember the date because it was the day that it snowed all day – in Houston. 

It was also the Friday that the Holiday on 19th Street Christmas celebration was planned.

My wife’s office had closed due to the weather so we had taken the opportunity to take a quick trip down 19th Street to see who would and wouldn’t be open.  We popped in and out of shops polling their owners to get a picture of how the evening was going to turn out.

By the time we got to Carter and Cooley to grab a bite to eat, it was nearly 3:00 o’clock and the folks at the deli were in the process of closing down.  It was cold, it had been dreadfully slow and the owners had called it a day.  Who could blame them?

They were patient with our late arrival and helped us with a quick bite, but we hardly had an opportunity to take the place in.

I decided this week to try it again.  After two lunchtime visits, I am pleased that I did.

Carter and Cooley is everything Heights.  Having been open for nearly a generation, Carter and Cooley is as much a Heights museum as it is deli.  The walls are decorated with dozens of old photographs and authentic nostalgia that chronicle the life and times of The Historic Heights. 

The facility itself hearkens back to days ago.  The tall glass windows that line the front provide a view of the quiet street outside, which seems miles from downtown rather than minutes.  Truly, it has a small town attitude in a big city zip code. 

The staff at Carter and Cooley are friendly and genuine.  Quick with a smile, when they ask about your day, they listen to your answer and seem to be interested in what you have to say.    Simply put, they seem more like neighbors than merchants.  The deli, it seems is their life, not their job and the diners are friends instead of customers.  The way things “used to be.”

And best of all, the handmade sandwiches are honestly delicious.  To use a cliché, they remind me of Mom’s.  I haven’t hade a better Reuben in years.  Grilled, hot and gooey.  Outstanding.  I also tried the B.L.T., which is stacked.  Hot toast, crunchy bacon and crisp lettuce and tomato.  Add a side of authentic Southern Potato Salad and you can’t go wrong.  Plus, the homemade desserts are the perfect finish.

 From pastrami to liverwurst to ham and turkey, the deli menu has a bit of everything

If you find yourself in the Heights or simply live nearby, stop in and visit.  The folks will be happy to see you and the food is worth the trip.

In a fast-paced, me-first world Carter and Cooley is like a step back in time – a step back to better days.

The Cajun Corner

With the weather bending to the cool side and Thanksgiving past, I can finally begin to look forward to the best time of the year - Crawfish Season! 

Yes, it is way too early to expect to be dazzled by the bugs I will find, but the season is legitimately upon us now that December is here, so I find that I can no longer resist the urge to see what's in store this year.

As I wrote here last season, I have three favorite places for crawfish - Ragin Cajun, Mardi Gras  and Cajun Corner.  Each spot holds a different lure for me when it comes to getting bugs.  Mandola's spot has the biggest bugs, Mardi Gras uses a heavy dry spice and Cajun Corner has a simply unbeatable and incomparable flavor.

So this weekend, when I started to get the itch, I placed a few calls to see if I could get it scratched.

First I called Mandola's Ragin Cajun.  I know that Mandola waits for good bugs to come in season before they start boiling.  If Ragin Cajun has crawfish in house, then the bugs at other places are bound to be decent as well.  But I also realize that being really early in the season, I am not gonna get big dads no matter where I go, so I figured I'd go for the flavor and head out west to Little Asia on the West Side.  Cajun Corner on Bellaire at Belle Park is the destination. 

After one last call just to be sure they were selling live crawfish, it was time to head out.  Living in the Heights, Cajun Corner is about 17 miles west of the house so a confirmation phone call is always part of the preliminary protocol.  (I've made the drive only to be disappointed more than once.) 

The little restaurant is an odd incarnation.  Imagine the decor of a taqueria with a menu that is a strange marriage of Cajun and Vietnamese cuisines.  The clientele is also quite eclectic, drawing from all over the West Side, which makes for great people watching.  

My family and I have been going to the Cajun Corner for quite a while.  One of my wife's colleagues turned her onto the place a few years ago when they went for lunch.  A strange choice for a professional lunch, I thought, but my wife was so impressed with the Dungeness crabs, she soon had me there for dinner.  I, too, was hooked.  The flavors in the seafood boil are intense and wonderful.  A garlicky, citrusy and salty concoction that is decidedly Asian but would make any Cajun proud.

My wife and I were happy to make the trip last weekend and delighted to get our first fix of the 2009-2010 Crawfish Season.  We slurped our way crazily through ten pounds and walked away feeling the salt coursing through our veins, with lips blazing and with eyes and noses running.

The bugs were small, but the flavors did not disappoint.  Worth the drive.

That being said, there are a few observations to be shared before you decide to make a trek.

The spot has changed ownership over the last few years with some good and some bad effects.  The restaurant has become somewhat cleaner and a bit more presentable in terms of its appearance.  New flat screens are up, and the restrooms are more tolerable.  The staff is also more tuned into the service they are providing, which is a nice change from the days when service was a total afterthought.

But the menu has suffered some.  Boiled crawfish, shrimp and blue crab are among the best in the city and still draw folks from miles around, but the delicious Dungeness crabs and live lobsters that are no longer served are sorely missed and do affect the magnetism of this little eatery.  (The tanks in which they used to lurk like death-row inmates are replaced by a coffee and beignet bar that seems to be unused.)  Too bad to give up on what many considered to be their very best offering and what, in fact, first drew us to the place.

The rest of the menu is far less than stellar.  From the gumbo to the fried rice, order at your own risk.

Also, I noticed, this year, a new auto-gratuity added to every check.  Even parties of two.  Having been in the service business for a lifetime, I can think of several legitimate reasons why management decided to implement this policy.  And I will say that our server was worth the presumptuous 20%, but I was a bit surprised that it was unannounced.  And I was more surprised that I was not given an itemized bill showing the gratuity until I, confused by the total, asked to see one.  I felt a bit duped.  Not so good.

But when all was said and done and my first seasonal yearnings had been sated, I was happy.  After 25 or more visits over the past few years, I give Cajun Corner a solid recommendation.  Just expect the unexpected and remember, it's all about the flavors.

Mistletoe Madness Kicks Off Holidays In The Heights

Mistletoe Madness is coming to the Heights. 

Sponsored and organized by the same folks who bring White Linen Night to the Heights each summer, Mistletoe Madness is the holiday version of the street festival that annually revs up the holiday season in the historic Heights.

"Set for Saturday, December 5, from 12-6 p.m., Mistletoe Madness faithfully showcases the Heights - profiling the people, the shop owners, the artists and the businesses that make the Heights a classy, progressive, and ultimate destination not to be missed," the event website proclaims.

Art, shopping, eating and live entertainment will highlight the days festivities which will also include a caroling contest!  Revelers will sample the wares and fares of artists, merchants and restaurants from throughout the Heights while soaking in the holiday decorations and festive atmosphere.

Organizers describe the event as "just the right mix of 'Eat, Drink, Shop & Be Merry.'"  And promise that  "Heights Mistletoe Madness 2009 is geared up to make this year's event the best yet."

Hope to see you there!

Laurenzo's And Salt Make Steady Progress

 Laurenzo's Grille Della Sport is getting much closer to it's winter soft opening promised by Dominic Laurenzo when I spoke to him in August.  The front facade looks fantastic (amazing when compared to the before photo) and the interior is nearly complete.  There is still work being done on the rear parking lot, but the hiring process is in full swing.  When finished, this upscale steak and burger house will seriously enhance the dining scene on Washington.

*****

Salt is located adjacent to Pearl Bar in the 4000 Block of Washington.  Chassidie Pommier, Director of Operations for both venues, says the crew is working hard and pushing for a mid-to-late December opening.  Space limitations have scaled back plans for a kitchen so Salt will be a bar exclusively.  Based on my impressions of The Pearl, Salt will be worth the wait.

El Rey Is King

El Rey is The King.  Plain and simple.  This little Mexican/Cuban Taqueria might have the best tacos I’ve ever had.  And it only took me two years to figure it out.  I've driven by this place dozens of times since moving to the Heights and every time I keep telling myself, "I need to try that place."  Finally, I did.  And I could kick myself for waiting so long.

The truth is El Rey does what it sets out to do in almost perfect fashion.  That is providing outstanding Mexican and Cuban cuisine in a fast, friendly environment, while keeping the prices in line with what one would expect from a fast-serve taqueria.

Simply put, the food is delicious.  Every single thing that I have had from the menu has been excellent.  From the tacos to the sandwiches.  And the house-made green and red salsas that they generously load into the takeout bag are truly awesome.

The location I frequent most often is the location at Shepherd and Washington, but there are four Houston locations, including one in the North Heights at Ella and 34th.

Finding fault with El Rey is almost nit-picking, but if there is one thing that stands out it is the drive-thru.  Customers order and pick up at the same window so service can get pretty backed up at this popular eatery.  Plus, there is only space for about three cars in the line before it curls out into traffic on Shepherd Drive.  And there is always a line.  But, the food is worth the risk!   And the wait.

In it’s favor, the drive-thru is open until 3AM from Thursday through Saturday which makes for a fantastic late night meal.  Should you find yourself out at 3AM. (Hours vary by location)

The restaurant inside is generally packed with customers who find it easier to come in than wait in the drive-thru lane.  This does cause a bit of congestion at the door.  But the counter-service is fast, friendly, efficient and accurate!  So getting in and out is a breeze.

The dining room is very clean, but quite small, so all of the traffic makes dining-in a bit of a challenge.  But not impossible.  And the windows looking out on Washington Avenue give diners plenty to watch, especially at night.

I definitely suggest you drop by El Rey if you haven’t been already.  The fajita tacos and the steak sandwich are my favorites, but the entire menu is simply delicious. 

Dessert Shoppe Opening On 19th Street

More good news in on the horizon for food-lovers and Heights residents as Dessert Shoppe is coming to W. 19th Street. 

Dessert Shoppe is an original concept, unique to Houston and locally owned.  It will be located at 512 W. 19th St., in the same strip as Collina's and Penzey's Spices.

Co-owners and sisters, Sara and RaeMarie Villar are fourth-generation Heights residents who say they have wanted to open a bakery since childhood.

"It started with my great aunt's cookie, [which] to us, in our family... is the best and it was only given to us on our birthdays plus holidays," shares Sara.

Inspired by the family recipe, Sara studied with Alain and Marie LeNotre at the Culinary Institute LeNotre and then landed a position as pastry chef at the old Warwick Hotel (now Zaza).  After the Warwick, she spent time in the kitchens of Rao's Bakery, as they expanded from Beaumont to Houston.

Finally, with her sister at her side, she will get to command her own ovens. 

The "Dessert Shoppe is a dream coming true," says Sara.  It "is going to be the place where I can make, bake, & create quality desserts, which is one of the things I enjoy most after The Lord."

Featuring an "array of desserts from whole cakes and pies to individual desserts, along with assorted breakfast pastries, cookies, quiches, cupcakes, and some breads," Dessert Shoppe will be open daily from 6:30am - 8:00pm starting in early December.

We'll be waiting. 

Update: Table Seven Bistro

I have received word from Shelley Elham, owner of Table Seven Bistro and District 7 Grill, that the space on Durham which was formerly Rare Bar will become Table Seven Bistro. 

When I first reported the transition here a few days ago I had not yet received word from owners Shelley and Babak Elham about their intentions for the space at 700 Durham.  Today, I can confirm that it will, in fact, be the second incarnation of Table Seven Bistro.  The first, located at 720 Fannin, opened in 2008.

Table Seven is an elegant restaurant unique to Houston.  The menu features steak, fish and pasta in the $15-$20 range. 

"We will be open for lunch and dinner [daily] and brunch on the weekends,"  explains Elham.  "The menu for lunch and brunch will be the same" as the other location, but "our dinner menu will be a whole new menu."  

Executive Chef Anthony Bolt, formerly of Daily Review and Shade, is at the helm in the kitchen so it should be delightful to explore the new creations.

The transition promises to be relatively quick. 

"Our target," say Shelley Elham " is to have a soft opening around November 15."  

I, for one, will be looking forward to it.

Rare Closes. District 7 Grill/Table 7 Bistro To Open

Rare Bar, which occupied the location at 700 Durham, has closed.  After a short lived appearance on the Washington scene, Rare closed for good in October. 

Rare was a concept bar that never really materialized.  The intentions were quite grand but the ownership and management could never bring the dreams to fruition.  The idea behind Rare was to be everything from a great breakfast spot, to a happy hour lounge and even an after-hours club serving food until 4AM.  But those ideas remained just ideas.

Problems plagued Rare from the start.  The hours of operation varied widely.  Sometimes they were open at lunch, at others they were not.  Some days they didn't open at all.  The phones were often "down."  The valet, which cost $6, could best be described as sporadic.

In the end, a lack of direction and clear definition as to what Rare was and wasn't turned people off and led to the demise of the bar.

In the meantime, District 7 Grill/Table 7 Bistro has occupied the space.

District 7 Grill and Table 7 Bistro are sister concepts with locations in Midtown, Downtown and Chinatown.  Attempts to contact ownership have proven unsuccessful, but both concepts are owned by Babak and Shelley Elham.  District 7 was the first concept to open with locations on Pierce and Hutchins.  In 2008, the Elhams refined the concept a bit with the more elegant Table 7 Bistro, which opened on Fannin.

Both concepts offer friendly and comfortable atmospheres with menus that boast fresh, quality ingredients at reasonable prices.  District 7 Grill, the more casual of the two, serves lunch and dinner seven days a week with a nice weekend brunch.  The more mature Table 7 Bistro serves all three meals daily. 

No word yet on which concept will make its home on Durham.

The opening date is not confirmed but work is progressing on the transition. 

I'll share more details as they become available.

Pie In The Sky Coming To 19th Street

 
When I first moved to the Heights a few years ago it seemed that a great local dining scene was just a "pie in the sky" notion.  But, slowly and surely that distant hope is coming closer to fruition.  The addition of Marlene Stubler's Pie In the Sky Restaurant to the addresses on 19th St. will certainly help bring the dream even closer to reality.

The phrase pie in the sky was originally coined as a lyric in a song by Joe Hill and over time has come to be "used figuratively to refer to any prospect of future happiness which was unlikely ever to be realized." 

Much like the dream of having a successful restaurant. 

But, for Ms. Stubler that prospect has been realized.  And then some.  Her first store in Conroe has been a big success and now she is bringing her talents to the Heights.  "One of my slogan's is 'What's your pie in the sky?'  This was one of mine, a pie shack in the Heights," she says.

Ms. Stubler got her start baking pies in her father's gas station, believe it or not.  "We had the best smelling gas station in the world.  My first flavor of pie to sell was cherry.  Cherry lattice pies are so pretty and tempting right out of the oven." 

In the fall of 2004, when her father decided to retire and close the station, Marlene and her father agreed to use a half-acre of land to build the first Pie In The Sky.  She and her sister opened in October 2005 and they have never looked back, baking over 40,000 pies since then.  Today, their pies are available at all Rice Epicurean Markets and the restaurant menu now features much more than just pies.  In fact, the original Pie In The Sky now offers cakes and casseroles and even helps with event planning and fund-raising.

Opening in mid-November, Pie In The Sky 2 will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner daily and will feature the same menu as the original store dishing up everything from fresh pies and pastries to burgers and fried bologna sandwiches. 

Marlene and her husband, a builder in the Heights, bought a home and moved their family here a few years back.  "I love the Heights.  The sense of community is so great.  The phrase 'sit long, talk much and laugh often.' (from her website) rings true here."

"I have been looking for a place for about two years.  Finally, I found the perfect [one]," she beams.  "I will enjoy riding my bike to work in the mornings."

Washington Avenue Keeps Building

This year has witnessed an explosion of growth along the Washington Corridor.  As fall sets in, there is no sign that things are slowing down.  Below is an update on a few of those projects plus a couple of new ones.

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Roosevelt

Located at 5219 Washington(originally reported as "Blue Book"), Roosevelt is an ultra-upscale concept by Saleem Hernandez, owner of Pandora.  This "25 and up" uber-posh lounge will cater to a "Fortune 500, River Oaks-type" clientele, according to Hernandez.  A "suit-and-tie" dress code and "exclusive pricing" will set the tone.  "This is not a club," says Hernandez.  "It's the next step."

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Brixx

The sign on the door still says Busty LaRue, but part-owner, Rod says the name Brixx was eventually chosen as an homage to the aged exterior of this spot nestled in between Taps and Eight.  "An upscale patio bar" is the vision.  Complete with outdoor service windows and a large back-porch.  The interior has been completely re-done and will be decked out with wall-to-wall flat-screens.  A DJ booth and small kitchen lend even more promise to the place which has a targeted opening of October 16.

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Shotzky's

Shotzky's is a "country-themed shots bar."  The shot menu will boast "over 1000 shots," says owner Andy Aweida, who also owns Kobain, Taps House Of Beers, Whiskey Creek and the adjacent club, Nox.  On Nett Street near Shepherd, Shotzky's will feature "roulette and Plinko at each table" so that revelers can let Lady Luck pick their poison.  Shotzky's will be open four nights a week, from Wednesday through Saturday, but promises to be a party every night!  Opening in mid-October.

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Phil's Texas Bar-B-Que

The old Southwest Muffler and Brake building at the corner of Heights and Washington will become a Bar-B-Que house.  Heights Blog first shed light on this change and the permits for Rampart Builders which hang in the window lead in the same direction.  At 7,000 square feet, Phil ain't messin' around!

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Where's Waldo? Alive And Well In The Heights!

If you read last Monday's post, The Starbucks Triangle, it was clear that not only was I guilty of libertine spending at the ubiquitous coffee peddler, but also, that I had realized the level of my Starbucks' debauchery.  In the end, ashamed at my own lack of discipline, I committed to change.  I suggested that I try to explore the coffee world rather than falling back on routine and habit.  I was to search the local Heights coffee dens and find alternatives to the evil giant.  On Tuesday, I started in earnest on my quest of discovery.

Waldo's Coffee House, located at 1030 Heights Blvd., was my first stop on the trip. 

The cute little shop just before the intersection with 11th Street is a gem of a find.  Nestled in the frame of an old Height house, Waldo's could as easily be located in Chappel Hill as in Houston. 

Waldo's is at once warm and inviting.  The front porch has space to sit and enjoy your latte with the afternoon sun, while inside the house is left divided into its original rooms with several tables in each for relaxed sipping.  The tables are numerous and the windows gaze out on an actual neighborhood.  The quiet comfort is far more charming than the mass-produced Starbucks dining rooms.

The coffee room in the back is clean and well tended.  The staff is friendly and welcoming.  Dana, the day manager, knew me by name after only two visits.  Although, I must admit that I frequented the shop more than twice this week.  Happily, supporting my neighbors.

Waldo's features Houston's own Katz's Coffee in all it's drinks and further sustains the neighborhood featuring a posting board where neighbors can leave notices or drop business cards for others to find.

Free wi-fi throughout the shop mixed with "movie nights" and live music on weekends nurture a zen that is part 60's coffee house and part campus hangout.  Low key, personal and inviting.  A vast improvement over the assembly-line schtick of the baristas at 'Bucks who wantonly echo each order at high volume as if performing theatre of the absurd

With its prime location in the heart of the Heights, Waldo's is never far from wherever you are and with street parking and a lot in back, Waldo's provides easy access for it's patron's and neighbor's.

Next time you need a caffeine boost, stop by and check out Waldo's for yourself.  Not only will you be happy with the flavor of the joe, you'll find true satisfaction in contributing to the success of a neighbor and the Heights, itself.

Starbucks Triangle

Recently, Chron.com posted a piece on the bizarre triangulation of Starbucks locations at the intersection of Shepherd and West Gray.  The short video in the piece films locals marveling at the notion that one merchant would open three stores so close together.  Imagine three Burger Kings at one intersection.  It would be mind-boggling.  Well, it would be for a burger joint, but burgers are not coffee.

After viewing the short video, I was more amused than anything.  Consumers in the clip ponder aloud over the seemingly inexplicable turn of events, all the while unconsciously sipping their $5 coffees.  The plain truth is the if the three stores weren't each doing good business, the Seattle giant would cull one out of the herd.  But the apparently baffled public need look no further than into a mirror for the true explanation as it, itself, keeps the registers chiming.

One couple in the clip questions whether all three can possibly survive a year, while in the next moment another customer admits frequenting all three in the same day.

Personally, I have no doubt the trio will continue to flourish.  Americans are obsessed with the legal and socially acceptable speed-drug caffeine, so there is absolutely no shortage of demand.  And frankly, each of the three locations has its own allure.

If you are traveling North on Shepherd, the location on the SE corner is most easily accessible.  If you prefer drive-through service then the choice has to be the NE corner store.  And naturally, if you are already inside Barnes&Noble, why on Earth wouldn't you get your coffee there?  After all, to Americans, convenience is truly a virtue.

And let us not forget the distinct pull of loyalty.  Addicts are loyal folks.  I, myself, live closer to the Starbucks at Durham and I-10 East, but routinely drive North to the store on the North Loop East at Nicholson because I feel it is more a apart of the neighborhood.  I am loyal, you see.  Oh, and it sports a drive through.  I am lazy, too.

But the more I think about it, I, as a Heights resident, shouldn't be going to Starbucks at all.  By doing so, I am sending my money - a whopping $657.57 so far this year, not including what my wife has spent, which she assures me is much less - to far off Washington state rather than supporting our local merchants and neighbors.  Where is the loyalty in that?  I need to be going to Waldo's or Cricket's.  If more of us were making the same local choices, we wouldn't have to question the cosmic meaning of three separate Starbucks sharing nearly identical addresses.

Old habits die hard is the cliche that comes to mind, but I am also reminded of the timeless Smithereens' lyric, "It is time for us to look for something new..."

PLONK! Beer and Wine Bistro

 "Wish you were here, In Beautiful Oak Forest!" proclaims the postcard on the front of each wine list at this new bar located at the intersection of 43rd and Ella.  And that same fierce neighborhood pride emanates from owner and longtime Oak Forest resident, Scott Miller, who says in creating Plonk! he sought "to make the perfect neighborhood bar...especially for Oak Forest."  In fact, Mr. Miller explains that he employed local artisans, craftsmen and merchants exclusively during the design and construction of Plonk!  No surprise when talking to the cerebral Miller who meticulously planned and executed every single aspect of his North Heights incarnation. 

Even the name Plonk! was very carefully chosen.  Plonk is British slang for cheap wine.  More than merely "cheap" wine, it is more truly evocative of thoughts of swill - the very bottom-of-the-barrel juice that was all but forgotten (and certainly neglected) during production.  But Miller, a self-described wordsmith,  "loves the word and its onomatopoeia."  Admittedly, it is fun to say and quite easy to remember.  But even more effective is the juxtaposition created when one compares the mental images conjured by the word plonk to the finely conceived and executed bar that is Plonk! Beer and Wine Bistro.  Of course, that is also no accident.

Plonk! - located at the edge of Oak Forest near Garden Oaks - is easily one of the most enjoyable venues I have visited since moving north of the city.  A classy, upscale atmosphere geared toward the residents of the neighborhood who enjoy savoring fine beer and wine with company in a clean, comfortable and safe setting.

In every detail there is a demonstration of Miller's perfectionist nature.  The former wine director at the renowned Pappas' Steak House has spared no expense in bringing his dream to fruition.  Every wine - from the simplest house wine to the most exotic selection - is at all times cellared in a glass library held at the optimum temperature of 55 degrees.  The beers are also treated with love and stored in a specially designed cooler with a frosty holding temperature of 31.8 degrees.

The architecture of the bar also reflects Miller's mindful diligence.  From the soothing granite bar top - once part of an actual riverbed - smoothed by running waters and lifted from nature to form Plonk's centerpiece to the impressive stone pizza hearth to the hand-laid hickory plank floors.  Plonk! is progressive without being impersonal.  The bar is spacious and intimate in the same moment.

The beer-and-wine list is equally well conceived.  Every palate - and budget - is accommodated, whether you are an enophile or prefer a refreshing brew.  An eclectic mix of tradition and hidden gems, the list will change with the seasons, mirroring the natural evolution of wine itself.  Mr. Miller confidently intimates that his list will always have something for every taste and promises to help you discover your new favorite if you don't find what you thought you were looking for. 

A food menu is in the works and the kitchen should be open in a month or two.  Pizza will be a major focus, but Miller has no designs on becoming a pizza joint.  Instead his culinary goal is to enhance "the Plonk! experience" for fans and followers.  In the meantime, Miller and chef Michelle Salek will satisfy eager crowds by having "Steak Nights" periodically.  The first such event was held September 8 for a sell-out crowd treated to bacon-wrapped filet, grilled shrimp and more, for a mere $20.

News and notices of upcoming events about Plonk! will be shared via email to subscribers.  No advertising is planned.  The only way to join the fun is to get on the mailing list by visiting the website and signing up.

The reason for Mr. Miller's passion is obvious.  Plonk! is truly his life's work.

"Not only did I want to build the best bar in Oak Forest," he says "I wanted to create a place that I would  want to come to every day."  Miller is more than a bartender, owner, chef and host.  He is a visionary and devoted Oak Forest resident bent on bringing his brand of experience to the neighborhood.  Based on what I have seen, Plonk! is exactly what Scott Miller intended it to be.

Laurenzo Family To Open Laurenzo's Sports Grill On Washington

The Laurenzo family, the folks responsible for bringing Houston such favorites as El Tiempo and Cantina 1308, is branching out with the latest addition to their collection - Laurenzo's Grille Dello Sport. 

The newest restaurant will be in the building at 4414 Washington and the renovation is in full swing.  I stopped by and found Dominic Laurenzo personally supervising the work.

Laurenzo's Grill, as Dominic calls it, is the first in the family of eateries that will focus on food that is not uniquely Mexican.  The Grill will feature more traditionally American fare.  Dominic described it to me as a "full-service, upscale burger place" that will also showcase high-end staples like "prime-rib, filet mignon and lobster rolls."

But, that's just the tip of the iceberg.  The full menu is available at the website and features such other delicious offerings as Maple Smoked Salmon, Baby Back Ribs and Colorado Lamb Chops.  Along with salads and plenty of burgers and sandwiches.

The space at Washington and Patterson is quite roomy and should provide for a very comfortable dining room.  Parking will not be an issue as Dominic informed me that they have leased the spot next door (the old Taqueria La Flor) in order to get its back lot, as well. 

When asked when he expected to be open, Dominic says he is "hoping for December 1."   Barring any unforeseen delays, of course.

As longtime fan of the Laurenzo family, I am hoping it's right on schedule. 

More Good Eats Coming On Shepherd

At 510 Shepherd, the old Cue and Cushion Pool Hall has been sold and is seeing some major changes.  The billiards tables are gone and a dining room is under construction.  The new place will be Cue Restaurant.  Though unconfirmed, the on-site rumor is that it will be a New York style deli - something like Katz's or Kenny and Ziggy's, I am told.  I'll keep you posted.

Update: Not a NY Deli, but an updated, Americanized London Gastro Pub.
More at VisitHoustonTexas.com

*****

 

Across the street, the old Midtown Monuments building is getting a face lift in preparation for the opening of BRC Gastro Pub.  The spot at 519 Shepherd is being gutted and expanded for a completely new look.  Cleverly.com reports that the ownership group consists of a team of true restaurant veterans - Lance Fegan and Shepard Ross (both from Glass Wall),  Lee Ellis (Tonic, The Social, Belvedere) and builder Carl Eaves (Belvedere, The Social, Daily Review and Shade).  Given the track record of these guys, this place should be a great addition to the local scene.

(Perhaps more exciting for residents of the Heights is the revelation by Cleverly that the same group, with Will Davis, has plans for a burger spot called Burgerzilla to be located at Eleventh & Studewood!  The corner is already home to 11th Street Cafe, Someburger and Houston Tamale Company, so it's hard to predict Burgerzilla's exact location, but I can't wait to find out!)

UPDATE: A reader pointed it out that The Houston Tamale Company is now closed and that might be the home of the new Burgerzilla.  Thanks, RBM.

Dharma Cafe

Dharma Cafe was recommended to my wife and I by a colleague who dines there regularly.  After last night's visit, I am sorry that we didn't heed her advice sooner.

Located in the historic Kessler building at the corner of Houston Avenue and Crockett Street, Dharma is a completely unique experience.  Owners John Gurney and Susan Ralph have infused their own life philosophies into this little restaurant, and the result is dining that is at once as soothing as it is rewarding.

Dharma, as explained on the website, is a Sanskrit word that is "best defined as the spiritual work that you do in your life to return to yourself, your center."  To John and Susan, that work is being of service and "feeding their friends."  There is the source of "Food for Life."

Dharma Cafe's dining room is small but very comfortable.  The tables, which look out over Houston Avenue, are quaint and intimate at the same time.  White linens and fresh flowers adorn each one.  The chairs are an eclectic mix of American country nostalgia, with no two seeming to match.  A small bar, flanked by a tiny lounge, lines one wall with seats for about eight folks to enjoy a cocktail and conversation.

The food is simple and delicious.  The freshest ingredients are used with subtle seasoning to highlight, rather than confuse, their natural flavors. 

From the homemade focaccia brought at the start to the cinnamon vanilla ice cream we ordered to finish. 

The crab cake, ordered as an appetizer, is lump crab - and little else - served in a sassy beurre blanc sauce that melds perfectly with the sauteed seafood.  Our salads were crisp and cold with beautiful tomato and cucumber and perfectly salty kalamata olives drizzled with a delightfully simple balsamic vinaigrette.   

My entree was Cedar-Planked Salmon with seasonal vegetable and new potatoes.  The glaze on the salmon was enough to hold its own without competing with the fish.  Very nice.  The vegetables were crisp and deftly prepared.  My wife had the homemade shrimp and pasta special.  The shrimp were large and plentiful. The pasta, itself, was outstanding.  Smooth in texture and tossed in a lightly creamy sun-dried tomato sauce which managed to be rich without being weighty.

A wide-ranging wine list that offers selections from around the globe complements the fare beautifully. Plus, Dharma offers a full bar and after-dinner selections that can sate any craving.  I suggest the Barros 20 Year Tawny.  Smooth and luscious with the cinnamon vanilla ice cream.

The service was also a tremendous highlight.  I am not easily satisfied, but here I was blown away.  Intuitive, intelligent and technically very sound.  Our server and his back waiter worked flawlessly together.  We were never in need of a single thing.  No detail was missed.  While I do not remember being offered his name, our check was initialed "D".  To him I offer my compliments.

Providing great dining can be a challenging task.  The folks at Dharma Cafe make it simple.

Namaste, John and Sarah.  Namaste.

Jason Gould Leaving Gravitas

It's sad news for the Houston (and Heights) restaurant scene.

In an unfortunate turn of events, Chef Jason Gould, the culinary mind and co-founder of Gravitas, is leaving his kitchen.

The story, originally revealed by Gould during an interview with Cleverley Stone, is that a riff has developed between Gould and Scott Tycer (owner of Gravitas and Textile) which centers around ownership.  Mr. Gould was under the impression that he, as the driving creative force and chef of Gravitas, was also part of the ownership group.  Apparently, that is not the case. 

When Mr. Gould realized that he did not, in fact, have a stake in ownership, he decided it was time for him to move on. 

While, I am not privy to the true details of this divorce, it does seem foolhardy for Mr. Tycer to let such an accomplished, award-winning chef get away.  

I figure greed and egos have met an impasse.

It is, after all, an all too common truth in the restaurant business that ownership rides its talent without proper reward.  Whether it is a front of the house personality or a kitchen genius, too often, ownership takes these people for granted, using their skills happily until they seek their just rewards.

While Mr. Gould has stated publicly that he hopes to remain in Houston, it will be interesting to see where he lands.  It will also be compelling to see what happens at Gravitas and to the local dining scene as the fallout from this break-up becomes clearer.

Sources: cleverley.com; 29-95.com; examiner.com

The Fine Art of Complaining

 I was reading a discussion forum recently, and a poster posed this question: "How do you complain in a restaurant without seeming like a pain?"

Oddly enough, this is not an uncommon question.  Many diners, in my experience, would more likely sit quietly displeased than vocalize their feelings.  I cannot count the number of times I, as a manager, would realize that something was amiss at a table, ask the guest how their experience was and get a neutral, or even positive, response.  I often had to coax the story from a guest as if she was admitting wrongdoing rather than exposing a problem with the store.

The thing that people don't seem to realize is that I want you to complain.  Of course that sounds odd and, in fact, I hope that you have no reason to complain.  My goal as a manager is to ensure that your dining experience is flawless.  From the hostess, to the table, to the food and service.  But, when it isn't, I want to know.  I need to know.

When there is a problem, please, speak up.  Feedback helps a restaurant grow.  We use it to improve our food.  We use it to teach our staff.  We use it to evaluate the experience from the guest's perspective.  So silence, in this case, is not golden.

A few tips on how to "talk to the manager."

1. Don't Complain.  Communicate.  Don't be intimidated.  The truth is, restaurants need your feedback.  Positive and negative.  It is an important tool.  One whose value is impossible to over-state.  If you have something to say, don't feel self-conscious about doing so.  Communicate.  The manager wants to hear it.  To her you are a coach, not a complainer.
    
2. Speak Up Immediately.  If something is not right, tell your waiter right away.  The sooner management realizes there is an issue, the faster they can address it.  The longer you stew on the problem, the harder it is to turn the situation around.
   
3. Don't Take It Personally.  Even in great restaurants, things go wrong from time to time.  Out of the hundreds of plates that leave a kitchen on a given day, a small percentage will not be perfect. No matter how great the kitchen and the staff.  When something goes awry, realize that it is simple chance.  You were not chosen.  Some guests tend to feel insulted when something is wrong.  This attitude makes it difficult to correct the problem and often serves to exacerbate it.  Be calm and speak to the manager as an ally rather than making him the object of a tirade. 
   
4. Satisfaction Is The Goal.  Realize that the restaurant wants to make you happy.  You have chosen to dine there and getting you in the door is half the battle.  The other half is making sure you leave satisfied.  Great dining is, after all, the promise of a great restaurant.  

Taking the time to talk to the manager lets the restaurant know that you care as much as they do.  Which is a quality that sets you apart as a diner.  A problem solved can be a great icebreaker.  Good restaurants look to cultivate relationships with their patrons and in order to do so, there must be dialog.  As is true in any successful relationship, communication is key.

A disgruntled guest is 10 times more likely to share his story than a satisfied one.  But the most powerful ambassador is the guest who has an issue resolved.

Dungeness Crab at The Boiling Crab

We wanted so much to like this place.  And normally, I don't share negative experiences.  But this one bears some discussion.

We decided to try The Boiling Crab on the West side on Friday.  Though it is part of a chain of restaurants - a major red flag - we were dying for dungeness crab and had read some decent reviews, including a great review by Alison Cook of The Houston Chronicle.  Unfortunately, we had a different experience.

My wife and I arrived about 7:00pm and were quoted a twenty-minute wait.  We were seated well within the twenty minutes and the hostess was efficient.  But, throughout the wait in the very small entry, we had to listen to the hostess telling her friend, another patron, about how she and a friend go to Dave and Buster's and get "the hook-up" on free drinks from the bartender, although they are underage.  That may seem insignificant, but to me it is offensive.  Not only are they stealing and drinking underage, the young lady is bragging about it while working in a restaurant, a very public forum. A complete lack of discretion and class.

When two tables came available at the same time, she called the first name and pointed to an area of the restaurant to her left and told the first couple to pick a table.  She then turned to my wife and I and said, "You can take what's leftover back there" and pointed us in the same direction.  We then had to stand and wait while the first couple moved back and forth between the two tables.  She seated neither of us herself.

Once seated, the table service was quick and friendly.  My wife and I each ordered gumbo (big bowls), but we each had only two shrimp amid a ton of sausage.  The shrimp were fine, but they tasted as if they were added into the gumbo when ordered as opposed to being cooked in the soup.  I realize that is the case in many restaurants - done to keep the seafood from breaking down - but knowing this made it even less tolerable that we each got only two shrimp for $5.99 a bowl.

For dinner, we both ordered a dungeness crab.  The flavors were excellent, but mine was served with three legs missing and one claw (and leg) gone.  Is it house policy to serve crab like this?  (I sent an email asking, but have not yet received a response.) We asked for large crab, and they were small.  Both, according to the check, weighed 1.8 pounds, which is not possible.  My crab was clearly smaller than my wife's and was missing 4 legs!  How could they weigh the same?  Again, not a value at $26.98 each.

They did not offer dessert and we did not ask.  Why prolong the misery?

As advertised, the flavors were great.  Spicy and bold, the recipe delivered as promised.  But the experience as a whole was too inconsistent and, in ways, inexplicable to recommend the place to anyone.  My wife and I drove out from The Heights because we love dungeness crab.  We left feeling as if the restaurant had short-changed itself as much as it had short-changed us.  It was not worth the trip.  We had hoped for so much more.

White Linen Night Is Here!

The much-anticipated night is here.  White Linen Night hits The Heights tonight. 

It's a full-scale showcase of life in the Heights!  Shopping, dining and getting to know your neighbors are the focus of this once-a-year festival that goes on after hours in The Heights.

Nearly 100 local shops, restaurants and area businesses keep their doors open late to welcome the public.  Many of the venues, normally closed on weekends, will be open this evening especially for the event!  Not to mention great pre- and post-parties extending the fun from 4pm til midnight!

Plush Carey of Houston Shuttles will operate FREE air-conditioned shuttles which cruise the circuit all evening.  Other transportation options will be available as well, so you can leave the car at home and relax.

If there is a spot you've been meaning to check out or you just want to get out and see the sleepy neighborhood stay up late, tonight is the night! 

See you there!

The Barbecue Inn

All I can say is "Count me Inn!" 

Honestly, with all of the press and accolades that The Barbecue Inn has received over the years, I couldn't add anything new.  A quick Google search will bring dozens upon dozens of hits - but no website - all singing the praises of The Barbecue Inn.  Saying something that hasn't been said about this landmark Houston eatery might be impossible, but I'll definitely chime in.

Located at Crosstimbers and Yale, The Barbecue Inn has been serving The Heights since 1946.  The decor, it seems, has changed little in those 50-plus years, but that simply adds to the charm.  Floor-mounted bar stools line the counter just like the diners of old.   A small window peeks into the kitchen where waitresses (no waiters) hand-write orders and then mount them on a spinning swivel.  No computerized ordering systems is used here.

The menu consists of classic American fare ranging from delicious slow-smoked barbecue and fried gulf shrimp to country-fried chicken and even filet mignon.  The barbecue is served either as dinner or a la carte with moist warm white bread slices.  Just like a picnic or backyard cook-out.  Entrees are served with a generous salad and home-cut fries.  Everything is cooked fresh and served fresh, right down to the pies at dessert.

We sampled the sliced pork barbecue which was excellent with a rich smoky flavor.  The house barbecue sauce was delicious, but the pork was tender and flavorful enough to stand on it's own.  The chicken-fried steak, topped with homemade country gravy, was tender enough to cut with a fork and the fried shrimp were big and juicy beneath a crisp, crunchy breading.

Our waitress, Beth, was cheerful and helpful, letting us in on menu highlights like which salad dressings were house-made and offering to make the sliced pork an appetizer since we intended to share it.  A relative newcomer when compared to the other ladies on staff, Beth could not have been a better ambassador for the restaurant. "I've been working here for a year and a half and I've never had a bad meal," she declared.  An endorsement far greater than the one I am writing here.

I have lived in Houston for nearly 30 years and had not heard of the Barbecue Inn until my mother-in-law suggested it a few weeks ago. 

To her I say, "Thanks, Mom." 

To the rest of you, I say, "Try The Barbecue Inn."  If you haven't been there yet, you'll be thanking me, too.

Note: The Barbecue Inn is closed Sundays and Mondays, so plan your visit accordingly.  Happy Eating!

L-O-L-A, Lola!

Ken Bridge is at it again.

The Heights restaurant genius (Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro, Pink's Pizza) is up to his usual tricks with a new venture which should add some culinary depth to the old neighborhood. 

Lola. 

Lola is located in the 1100 Block of Yale at the intersection with 11th Street.  Sitting on the NE corner, Lola will fill the space across the street from the post office that has been empty for many months.  (I can't tell you how many times my wife and I have commented to each other that it would be a great spot for a restaurant)  For years, Eckerd Drugs made the corner it's home, but the building was vacated when Eckerd closed and it fell into disrepair. 

Recently, however, the structure was purchased and fully renovated.  A health club has already moved into the North corner becoming the building's first tenant.

Mr. Bridge's vision is a full-service restaurant serving three squares a day to the neighborhood folks. "Breakfast, lunch and dinner will be served seven days a week." he states.  A welcome change in an area where most places close on Sunday.

Fresh, local ingredients and on-the-spot preparation will be key, as in Mr. Bridge's other ventures.

The star at breakfast will be omelets "made-to-order" for patrons who will have a dazzling list of ingredient choices ranging from broccoli to prosciutto and everything in between.  Lunch and dinner will feature American comfort foods at "small-town" prices right here in the big city.

Mr. Bridge hopes to obtain a club license, much like Shade on 19th, so that guests will be able to enjoy an adult beverage with a meal by joining the club rather than having to carry a bottle along with them to dinner.  

An opening date is not yet firm, but Ken and his team can be seen daily working to get the space ready for business and the sign is already up announcing the new diner to passersby.

In addition to being a landmark hit song from the 70's, Lola, it appears, will soon be a landmark diner in The Heights.  I will be first in line.

Benjy's - In The Village

Benjy's in the Rice Village was simply a fantastic experience.  I could leave it at that and avoid gushing, but you know I won't.

I decided to try Benjy's for the first time last week.  It has been a landmark of the Village for years, but for whatever reason, I had never made it over there.  (My wife had been on several occasions, but I had somehow missed those opportunities.)  We were planning a dinner with some very dear friends to celebrate our marriage and I was looking for a place.  I thought it was the perfect time to try Benjy's.  I was right.

Although there is a recently-opened Benjy's on Washington, I wanted to try the original first.  And from the very first phone call, Benjy's, located on Dunstan in the Rice Village, was first class. 

I called on Thursday to make a reservation for Friday evening.  Four people at 6:30.  I knew it was short notice and was hopeful that they would have a spot.  (Although 6:30 sounds early, parties at this time can be difficult to accommodate if the restaurant has a heavy evening in the books.)  I explained to the young lady, Mary Ellen, that it was my first time and that I was celebrating and hoping to impress my guests.  These are things an experienced host or hostess will pick up on.  First-time guests mean first impressions, which we know are lasting.  Guests who are looking to impress are in a way trusting the restaurant to do it for them.  In truth, I was asking for special treatment without asking for special treatment.  I was not disappointed.

I arrived at Benjy's about 15 minutes early on Friday.  The staff was there to open the door and once inside the smartly attired greeters were extremely friendly and very well organized.  They had my reservation and I was seated immediately, instead of being told to wait until my party was complete, which has become more and more the norm.

Although I was a first-time guest, I was taken to a very nice table with a lovely view of the dining room.  It was not too close to the door and was out of the way of general traffic.  Again, I was pleased. 

The dining room is very comfortable with a nice mix of tables and booths to satisfy any desire.  The lighting was cool, but not dark, creating a very comfortable atmosphere, perfect for dining.

I was quickly greeted by Mark, who was to be our server.  I explained that my guests would be straggling in one by one as they got off work and he seemed not the leased bit ruffled or antsy about this fact, which was welcoming.  As my wife and guests arrived, he came by to greet each person individually, although we ordered nothing until we were complete.  Once we were, we easily chatted for 30 minutes before ordering a bottle of Champagne.  Mark was accommodating and patient throughout.

It turns out that I had worked with one of the managers, Kerry Paulie, in the past.  He came by the table and met my guests and was genuine and friendly.  He even went so far as to send out four individually plated Goat Cheese Cakes, which were a delightful homage to today's ever-popular crab cakes.  They were seasoned with sun-dried tomato, coated with pistachio and served over a salad of carrot and golden raisins. They were simply delicious and a wonderful, unexpected treat.

We chatted and chatted and Mark was always present but never intrusive, picking up on our needs through eye contact and instinctive non-verbal cues.  Another hallmark of fine service.

When we finally ordered and were served dinner, we were blown away.

The menu, driven by Chef Drew Wilson, is a wonderful mix of comfort and quality.  Contemporary American food prepared with passion and care in a way that allows the ingredients to shine through without being lost or muddled.  A type of respect for the food that is a joy to find, but often missing in today's busy world.

To begin, we each tried something different.  From the Butter Lettuce Salad to the Spicy Tuna Tartar or from the Pan-Seared Pork Dumplings to the Mexican Chicken Soup, we were all delighted.

Dinner was equally tasty.  The Wood-Grilled Pork Chops were excellent with a rich and savory apple glaze.  My wife thoroughly enjoyed Milton's Warm 10-Vegetable Salad.  Our guests were equally satisfied with the Buffalo Hangar Steak and the Pan-Seared Sea Scallops.  Compliments all around.

At dessert, Kerry again out-did himself and treated us to Grandma's Fudge Brownie (which apparently Grandma Levit, herself, still makes daily) and a Peach Cobbler featuring perfect seasonal peaches.  Both desserts were topped with real vanilla ice cream.  They were a fine conclusion to a sparkling meal.

Although we occupied Mark's table (Table 32, I believe) all night, he never left us for a minute.  We never wanted for a thing and never had to turn our heads to find him.  Down to the smallest details, like freshening our ice waters when they began to melt away, he was professional and spot-on.  He allowed us to enjoy our company and the meal, which made the dining all the better.

My experience at Benjy's has left me longing to return and eager to try the second incarnation on Washington, which promises to be more of the same.  The menus are slightly different, I am told, but the warmth and professionalism of the staff are a common language spoken at both locales.

I have not met Benjy Levit, but will extend a hand of genuine congratulations on a job well done, if I do.

 

Block7

The new kid on the wine block is Block7WineCompany, but with all it has to offer I am confident Block7 will be the Big Kid on the block in very short order.  

"When it comes to wine, I tell people to throw away the vintage charts and invest in a corkscrew.  The best way to learn about wine is the drinking." 

This Alexis Lichine quote featured on the Block7 website is perhaps the best summary of what's happening inside the building at 720 Shepherd.

Recently, I was lucky enough to be given a sneak preview of the facility by Amber Roussel, Director of Marketing And Events.  Believe me when I tell you it is an impressive venture of quality and artistic style.

Located just south of Washington Avenue, Block7 has converted the old Western Appliance building into a true wine lover's mecca.  With 8,000 square feet of space, Block7 will offer Houstonians a place to buy, learn and enjoy.

Nearly 3,000 feet of space are devoted to a climate-controlled walk-in wine warehouse featuring 500 hand-selected wines from around the globe.  The wines, Amber boasts, will be retail priced as competitively as anywhere in the city, "even Spec's."  The bottle price is the same whether you enjoy it on premise or take it home.  And never a corking fee!

Additionally, Block7 offers a place to learn and taste.  Adjacent to the warehouse is a 35-foot stainless steel bar and tasting area for people to gather and sip on featured wines and enjoy complimentary aperitivo snacks.  Plus, look forward to free tastings on Saturdays, as well as educational classes scheduled regularly to help bridge the gap between what we know and what we taste. 

Beyond the casual space are tables for full-service dining surrounded by the modern stylings of some of Houston's best artists found through a collaboration with the non-profit spacetaker.org.  The first artist featured is Matt Messenger whose collection will run through August.  Live music featuring homegrown musicians like Peekaboo Theory and Come See My Dead Person add to the eclectic feel. 

Further still, there is a very large private event space nestled behind the kitchen that boasts availability for upwards of 150 guests.  Reservations for fall and winter events are available now.

Wow!

In converting the space, the crew at Block7 focused on maintaining the historical integrity and warehouse feel of the building by utilizing nearly everything that was left behind.  Old file cabinets are used as  checkout stands in the retail space.  The team uncovered some wonderful photos of Old Houston that they have had restored and will feature throughout the space along with pieces of modern sculpture from Houston area artists that enhance the industrial mood.  The stainless steel wine racks were custom designed by Alberto Bonomi,  who is also responsible for the design of the impressive tasting bar.

Sommelier, Eric Hastings, most recently from Denver has come aboard and along with Loren Root will lead the highly trained wine service team.  The focus is on knowing the wines on hand.  "Each and every wine has a story," as Amber states, "and the team will know them."  That is why they will have 500 wines as opposed to 2,000.  But, rest assured, if you want something specific, Block7 will be able to find it for you.

Wine tours and travel are also a big part of the picture at Block7 with Michael Housewright leading the way. In fact, Block7 is Texas' first and only full-service wine tour operator.  The first trip is scheduled to launch this fall with an expertly guided six-day trip through the Wine Country of Italy.

At the helm in the kitchen is Miguel Hernandez, formerly of Rainbow Lodge.  The emphasis here is on the "slow" food philosophy and regional fare from the Texas Gulf Coast and Texas' own farms.  Fresh seafood and local ingredients will highlight, but the All-Star of the menu promises to be the Block7 Burger made from 21-day dry-aged beef.  The best in town, I am told, but priced like a burger, not a T-bone steak! 

The vision is grand at Block7.  The philosophy is sound and the investment in quality and education are obvious from the moment you speak to the people inside. 

A soft opening is planned and people have already begun wandering in to take a peek.  If you are passing by, stop in and see for yourself what is new on the Block.

Barnaby's Cafe

If you have lived inside the loop for any period of time then you are no stranger to Barnaby's.  A true gem of a restaurant.  Casual, comfortable and inviting.  The menu is a variety of home-style favorites mixed with a genuine consciousness of good health and quality.

My wife and I used to frequent the Midtown (W. Gray) location, but since moving to the Heights we tend to visit the River Oaks location most often since it is just a straight shot down Shepherd.  Everyone seems to have a favorite.  Especially folks who visit the Original location (604 Fairview) and Baby Baby Barnaby's which is right next door (602 Fairview) but specializes in a fantastic breakfast.  The restaurant is small and always hoppin' and early morning dining (and people watching) is almost a rite of passage for Inner Loopers.  Now, Barnaby's has expanded across the border, outside the Loop on Woodway. 

The name comes from the name of the owner's childhood pet sheepdog and the puppy motif is prevalent in each store.  Paper menus and a seat yourself mentality (when not on a wait) lend to the comfortable at home atmosphere.

The service is always quick and friendly and the menu is high quality and high quantity.  The guacamole is superb, but you'll need a friend to share the generous portion.  The salads are always extremely fresh and definitely large enough to be a meals in themselves.  I tend to get one of the juicy, housemade burgers, but there is plenty to chose from including cold sandwiches, hot entrees and vegetarian selections as well. 

If you are in the mood, the wine list is small, but well rounded with a remarkably agreeable price range.

The place is well staffed, well managed and delightfully consistent whether dining in or taking out.  If you haven't tried Barnaby's you owe it to yourself.  Whatever the neighborhood, you won't be disappointed.

More New Places In The Neighborhood!

Recently, in this column we discussed the explosion of activity on the Washington Avenue and now it seems  as if the growth is rapidly spreading.  In a good way.  Check out some more new places in the neighborhood.  (I've included links to websites when available.)

Washington


The Dubliner
This place is opened across the street from The Lot and Pearl Bar.  The 4000 block of Washington.  Looking for a great Irish bar?  Try this one.  I hear the bartender is actually Irish!

*****


The Drinkery
This is in the old Daily Grind Cafe on Washington.  I never thought that place would go.

*****


Shepherd and Durham





Rare Bar
This is actually the Durham side, but there is access from the Shepherd side as well.  The Rare Bar shares the building with Bliss Salon.  Nice Car.

*****



Block 7 Wine Company
This could be interesting.  The location is just South of Washington on the East side of Shepherd.  Used to be an appliance warehouse of some kind.  These pictures are already a tad old as a large porch was on the front last time I passed.  From the website, it looks like the place is designed to take on all comers from the Houston Wine Merchant to Cova, just up the road.  I might have an in with these guys, I'll let you know what I turn up.  This is excitinig.

*****



Shuck Daddy's
This is where the old Mak Chin used to be.  (Anything will be better than that place.)  Crawfish, Oysters, Crabs and Suds.  It is supposed to be more family friendly than the bikes might imply, but I really liked the shot.  This is the West side.  The East side backs up to Washington with a patio.

*****



Pagoda Vietnamese Bistro and Bar
This place is really tucked away.  It's on the East side of Shepherd but nestled of the road.  This picture was taken from the Cadillac Bar parking lot facing South.  Looks like a fun and quaint little place.  Read the marquee.  $5 martini Wednesdays.  That alone is reason to check out The Pagoda. 

*****

It seems as if places are coming and going like wildfire.  A great thing for the Heights.  It sure would be nice to have a place or two North of I-10, though.  This week, I'll follow up on the progress on the Washington Avenue growth.  Stay Tuned.

Tecate Mexican Restaurant & Cantina

This is a good place.  Simple words, but not really a simple place. 

From the outside, Tecate Mexican Restaurant and Cantina is unassuming, to say the least.  You might have been by and not really noticed.  I probably drove by the place five or six times (there on the corner of 27th and Ella across from my favorite Lowe's) before my wife pointed it out.  With short daily hours it seems we had been passing by when the kitchen was closed, but on this day there were cars in the lot. 

My wife had heard good things about the food, and being junior Taqueria aficianado's, we needed to investigate. 

The place is small and minimally decorated as with most authentic Mexican restaurants, but the staff was there at the door and offered a quick welcome.  We were seated at the nicest available table and were promptly met with chips and salsa both of which were refilled promptly throughout dinner.

The Margarita's are served in small wine glasses, but they are delicious and deliver the goods.  Don't be fooled.  Tart and sweet, they disappear too quickly.  Use caution.

The food, too, is very good.  We arrived at the restaurant with the recommendation to try the seafood soup.  Our server also raved on the soup and it's fresh preparation.  While we didn't follow those orders, what we had was very good. 

The appetizer Shrimp Vera Cruz is spectacular.  Jumbo shrimp sauteed with red bells and onion in a thick tomato roux.  The torillas on the side could make it a meal.  The Ground Beef Taco Salad was alos very good.  I like to order this salad in Mexican places to see how they treat it differently.  Some places treat their salads like dishes in themsleves, other places serve salads as an afterthought.  Tecate does it right.  It is fresh, well portioned and served with a sassy housemade vinaigrette, a very pleasant surprise from a kitchen with some obvious talent.  My wife had the Enchiladas Mexico.  Another smash.  We didn't even need a togo box.  Unusual for us and Mexican food.

There is no website for Tecate, the restaurant, that I can find but a quick google search will give you some leads on directions and location.  The hours seem to vary with early closing being the norm so call first.  713-868-5232.  Search Tecate Restaurante Ella Houston or just click my link.

If that doesn't work hop on Ella Boulevard, head toward 27th Street and look for these signs...

Town And Country Launches CityCentre

If you live West of the Galleria in the Memorial or Town and Country area you might have been wondering what in the world they've been working on for the past couple years there nestled behind the Mall along the East side of Beltway 8. 

The answer: A little bit of everything!

Houston CityCentre is shaping up to be the residential/retail/entertainment/hospitality mecca of the near West side.  (The website is full of photos and great information.)  Restaurants and businesses are actively hiring and the targeted opening date is sometime in August or September.  Whatever the final go date is this place promises the world.

Tucked in the Southeast corner of the Beltway 8 and I-10 Interchange, CityCentre is located in Texas' wealthiest zip code boasting a median household income over $200k per year.  And this new venture promises to give them just the place to spend it.  CityCentre could seriously rival the Galleria in terms of accessibility and sheer entertainment opportunities.  Class A office space, hotels, convention centers,  brownstones, lofts, penthouse apartments, upscale shopping, entertainment and dining, there just isn't much left out.

The list of committed ventures is impressive including Hotel Sorella (a 244 room luxury hotel by Valencia) The Norris Conference Center, Life Time Athletic and Amegy Bank.  Also included is a fine venue for sophisticated shopping at retailers such as Sur La Table, Anthropologie and Bailey Banks and Biddle as well as restaurants including Straits, Yard House, Eddie V's, The Wine Loft, Brio and a Studio Movie Grill (for those of you who just can't make time for dinner AND a movie).

This is very exciting.  Not just because it is a new place for me to explore.  This is very exciting for just about anyone who lives West of Downtown and North of 59.  Shopping and fun while headed WEST!  It will be fun to watch this develop.  Stay tuned for updates.

Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro

If you like Asian food and you live in the Heights, you really owe it to yourself to try The Dragon Bowl Asian Bistro.  Located next to the Mattress Firm at 11th and Shepherd, Dragon Bowl is Asian fusion in the Heights.  My wife and I have been ordering take-out from this place since our first night in our home, literally eating dinner from paper boxes while sitting at a table of cardboard boxes.

Dragon Bowl just doesn't disappoint.  The menu consists of fresh, high quality dishes prepared with the best ingredients.  This is not Panda Express.  This is real food. 

I especially like the "Build Your Own Bowl."  For $9 you can create your own combination of chicken, beef or pork (add $2 for shrimp) plus any  sauce with either rice or noodles and all the fresh ingredients you like.  Add an order of Crispy Dragon Rolls (5 for $4) and you are set.  Or, for something lighter, you can peruse the selections from the sushi bar.

The dining room is small (counter-service only) and always busy during peak hours.  I suggest you call ahead and order for take-out, but if you prefer to order in person, just stop by.  You will not be bored watching the small crew working fast and furiously behind the line while you wait for your order.  You can grab a bottle of Sake or another beverage to take home, as well.  Which is nice. 

The Dragon Bowl is a one-of-a-kind, not a franchise, owned by the owner of Pink's Pizza, another Heights staple.  The Dragon Bowl is clean and the service is fast and friendly.  Plus, the staff takes care to get your order right.  Every time.  From the telephone to the take-out bag to your kitchen.

If you haven't tried Dragon Bowl, I suggest you give it a go.  I'll bet you won't be disappointed.

Cantina 1308

This is another El Tiempo incarnation, so it could be listed in "Places To Eat," but I find the place best suited for margaritas and parties.  (Get as loud as you want.)  Yes, the tenderloin fajitas are super, but the margarita's are legendary.

This location, once La Jaliescience, a local taqueria with quite a history, is the third El Tiempo after the Richmond and Washington Avenue locations.  Although I have spent plenty a night at the original on Richmond, I think this is my favorite.

The bar is the most comfortable of the three.  The patios (one in rear and one in front) are a bit small, but the casual midtown locals don't seem to mind.  The actual dining room is separated from the bar for a quieter meal. (But who goes for Tex-Mex looking for quiet?)  The food is consistently good and, honestly, some of the highest quality Tex-Mex available. 

The service on my two visits (once on a weeknight and once on a weekend) has been very friendly and attentive.  The restrooms were clean (amazing, actually, if you ever saw the old place) although employees screaming on their cell phones is a major turn off.

Priced a bit higher than most Tex-Mex in Houston, the quality ingredients and upscale environment are worth the extra expense.  Call your friends, get there early (it gets crowded) and find an excuse to cut loose. 

Washington Avenue Revival

It wasn't too long ago when Washington Avenue conjured images of broken down buildings, dirty car lots and a generally bad element.  But times have quickly changed.  Now Washington Avenue sits in the center of a real estate revival as young professionals (and their salaries) fill the new upper income homes and condos being built not only along the Washington Avenue corridor, but also in nearby Montrose and the Heights. 

With them these youthful spenders have brought an appetite for local entertainment that has area entreprenuers scrambling to fill the void.

"If you build it, they will come."  That has been the mantra of businesses on Washington Avenue over the last few years.  New restaurants like Catalan, Benjy's, Cova, El Tiempo, Max's, and Molina's have all opened to great success.  And more is on the way.

While driving down Washington just yesterday, I was able to snap these shots of some of the new places filling the old spaces.

This is "Blue Book" based on the signage.  South side of Washington in 5100 block.  Not much information, but a great space.




Across the street is "Beer Taps."  An ale house with a keg cooler large enough to park a truck in.
"The Ginger Man has nothing on this guy."  I am told.




This is "Busty La Rue."  Not sure if that is the actual name or a working title, but that is what the sign says.  This is just the building with the three garage doors.  The place next door with the cage on top is "8"




This is "8"  According to Tony, who I took to be involved with ownership, although he did not say so.  An upscale, full service lounge is the concept.  From the look inside these guys have invested in doing things right.  The patio will be gated and there will be roof access.  Parking will not be an issue as the rear and East lots have been cleared for paved parking.




Further East on Washington is "Hoss Fly" next to The Pearl Bar and The Lot.




"Reign Lounge" in the 4000 block also will offer roof top mingling.




"Sawyer Sports Bar."  Another double-decker.  This is the site of the old Pig Stand restaurant.

It may seem like a lot of ambition in such a small area, especially with the economy on the blink, but it is worth noting that the Washington Avenue area has been more or less impervious to the effects of the economy.   None of the restaurants that have opened on Washington in the last few years have failed. 

Only time will tell if these new establishments will survive or not, but the signs are looking good.

Clothes Make The Man.

In the restaurant world, a world of first impressions and snap judgments, truer words were never spoken.  Clothes do make the man (or woman).  Or, in this case, the uniform makes the server.  And the restaurant.   

Uniforms are an extremely important part of the dining experience.  They speak volumes about the server and the restaurant.  In fact, uniforms tell all.

For the restaurant they represent an idea or philosophy.  As Denver restaurant columnist Stacey Brugeman explains, restaurant owners are speaking to their clients  through the uniforms of their servers.  Upscale restaurants who have their servers wear blue jeans, for example, might be encouraging  their guests to relax, to enjoy.  Suggesting that dining is a common, comfortable experience.  It should not be so  pretentious as to require careful dress.  By contrast, an Italian corner bistro which uniforms it’s servers in shirts and ties might be paying homage to a tradition of service as a proper profession.  The idea being to always be dressed as well as your expected clientele.

Uniforms also tell of the service a server is likely to give.  I mean, if he doesn’t care enough about his performance to consider his appearance, how concerned can he really be about his guests?  A good server is one who embraces service.  A server who embraces service realizes the visual impact that a great uniform has on each table and strives to perfect his appearance.  Each new table is like a job interview, although the job is secured, salary is being negotiated in the form of gratuity.  A great first impression is key.  As a former server myself,  I can testify to the impact a great looking uniform has on the tips received, service quality notwithstanding.  A simple fact known to all professionals in the service industry.  If your server let’s this slide, he’s leaving money on the table.  That is a red flag.

About management, uniforms say even more.  Simply put, the quality of the staff’s appearance is a direct reflection of the level of commitment management has to the restaurant and to you.  Period.

Uniforms are one quality of the atmosphere within a restaurant that can be refreshed each and every day.  The staffs’ appearance as a whole, if properly maintained, is a highly effective way to control and enhance both atmosphere and service.

A good appearance is, quite simply, the first step to good service.

'Tis The Season

Crawfish Season, of course.  This is "the best time of the year" if you are a "bug" lover.  Spring.  The bugs are big and getting bigger.  The water is boiling.  The air is warm.  The beer is cold.  This is paradise if you live South of the Red River.

I love crawfish.  Love 'em.  I'm talking last-meal-on-death-row-love.  I would wager that I have eaten tons of crawdaddies in my lifetime.  Tons.  I never get tired of 'em.  In fact, having crawfish is more than eating a meal to me, it's like getting a fix.  Truly.  I can literally feel the salt and spices coursing into my veins.  And I'm all good.  Wash 'em down with a cold one and taste satisfaction.  Ah.

Now, I am not a Cajun.  (I'm from Ohio.  Crawdads are bait there.)  What's more, I've never even worked in a true crawfish house.  So, I won't try to tell you that I know how they should be done.  But, I will say that crawfish are a lot like barbeque.  Everyone has a different recipe, a different secret.  If you tried 20 cajun joints you'd have 20 different flavors.  Some sweeter.  Some spicier.  Some juicy and some dry sprinkled.  And each boil tastes different.  Not just from day to day, but from one batch to the next.

For that very reason, I can't really answer the question I am so often asked, which is "Who has the best crawfish?"  Even within my own family debate rages on this topic.  I can tell you, however, the places that my family goes most often during The Season.

1. Mardi Gras Grill   This place used to be Floyd's.  As in, Floyd Landry.  I've been eating here for 15 plus years.  Donnie, the bartender, has been there for 14.   The place has changed names over the years, but the recipe is still the same.  I like the spicy hot flavor and the dry rub salt that is dusted over each batch.  The size of the bugs can be inconsistent, but the flavor is great.  The rest of the menu provides dependable and authentic cajun favorites.  Try the dark roux crawfish bisque.  The best in town.  The atmosphere is dominated by the staff and the regulars, for better or worse.  As for service, I say sit at the bar.  (Think -  icehouse with a full bar and better menu.)  I usually eat here when my wife is out of town and I am on my own.
2. Ragin Cajun   Another Houston institution.  We go to the original location on Richmond.  This is my daughter's favorite.  The crawfish are delicious, but not quite as spicy as I like.  They are consistently the largest in town and always of high quality.  But then, this is a Mandola restaurant, so what would you expect?  The other menu offerings are quite tasty, as well.  The restaurant is always clean and the staff is friendly.  Easily, the best managed of the three on this list.  The only drawback is the counter service.  I prefer to be waited on.  But that's me.
3. Cajun Corner   Way out west on Bellaire Blvd. in Asiatown, you'll find a different style of crawfish boil.  In fact, they may be steamed and not boiled at all, as that is how this restaurant used to prepare the live lobster and dungeness crab that are no longer available.  A tragedy in itself.  But the crawfish are available in cajun or spicy garlic (that's right, the cajun ones are milder) and they are worth the drive.  Asians, too, have been eating crawfish for years and it shows in this recipe.  I don't know what they do differently from the Cajuns, but the flavors are amazing.  The rest of the menu, save the fried rice, is suspect and the service is slow.  The restrooms are functional at best.  Normally, this place would probably make another type of list, but when it comes to crawfish this place is lights out.  Incidentally, this is my wife and son's favorite.  Hey, it is all about the flavors.

Try these places and let me know what you think.  Or, if you have a different favorite, send me a link and I'll try it out.  After all, I'm always looking for bigger, better bugs. 

Time Will Tell

Candelari’s Pizzeria is moving into the old Paulie's location on Holcombe at Kirby.  You might be saying to yourself, "Where?"   But, take a moment.  I promise, you know the place.  This is the southern edge of Rice Village, just west of the Medical Center and east of West University Place.  The building is in the Rice Epicurean parking lot, next to Kelsey Seybold.   Here

Now, it is not my intention to attempt to cover or follow every restaurant opening and closing in town, but this one interests me because it is a test of my instincts.

You see, I believe this a great location and argued exactly that in the past when my former company was considering expansion.

When I was with my most recent employer he had an opportunity to have this location.  About a year ago.  He passed.  My employer also passed on the old Honey Baked Ham location about a half mile west on Bellaire at Buffalo Speedway.  It is in the Randall's parking lot.  Vincent Mandola's Pronto Cucinino sits there now.  

My wife and I lived in Woodside off Braeswood at the time and I lobbied hard for expansion there. I felt so strongly that had I the means at the time to open my own place, I would have left the company and done so.  

There simply aren't enough restaurants in the area.  Especially good ones.  West U, Bellaire, Rice Village, The Medical Center.  They are all right there.  Literally.  Right there.  Homes, hospitals, shopping all potentially feeding the restaurant.  The business and residential demographics are amazing.  Rice Village is two lights up on Kirby and the restaurant scene there is alive and well. 

I do not know what my employer saw at the time that made him hesitate when considering the location or the area.  I don’t know what he saw or didn’t see.  I do not know the details of the deal that Candelari’s owners Michael May and Greg Wheeler eventually struck to get the property.  I do know what was on the table before, but that was then.  Most importantly, though, I know what I would have done.  And now, Candelari's is doing it. 

Today I still see huge upside with this location.  More than that, I see a potential gold mine.  I believe that Candelari’s owners May and Wheeler see the same thing - and must be bursting with anticipation. 

Honestly, so am I.

Shade

Shade is certainly not a new restaurant to the Heights.  In fact, it is not new to my wife and I.  We had been to Shade once before moving into the neighborhood.  I couldn't say when, but it had been a while. We had gone on the recommendation of a client of mine who had gushed about the burger.  When we got there, we were told the burger was a lunch only item. We were disappointed.  The food we had was very good, but since we lived in the medical center, we never made it back.

But, after starting this blog, I was really itching to try it again.  We did the other night.  We were not disappointed.  The food was very tasty and the wine list also showed depth.  Our server was informed, attentive and accommodating.  The atmosphere was simple and comfortable.  A great place to dine.

My wife and I were seated at a nice table despite not having  a reservation.  We were greeted promptly.

The beer list was small but varied.  Belhaven was my pre-dinner selection.  A Scottish half liter served with a pub glass.  Nice.

The wine list also showed variety and intuition.  We found St. Supery Virtu for $48.  Delighted, we shared a bottle with dinner.  It is fantastic and very well priced.  We also observed the wine buyer, or we assumed so from his comments, serving a tasting of Coturri to the table next to ours.  Unfortunately, we were not offered a sample, but I have worked with the Coturri family's products before and they are excellent and frankly, rarely seen here in town.  A lure, quite surely.

We started by sharing the Campechana.  The lump crab meat was huge and fresh.  The shrimp were cooked perfectly and the plantain chips, sliced lengthwise, were much lighter than many places.  Well done!

The soups we sampled were a simple chicken soup full of chicken and vegetables and a tomato soup, roasted, with a pepper oil, I believe, as garnish.  Both were delicious.

The entrees were very nice, as well.  I had the Pork Chop which was juicy and cooked just past medium.  Excellent.  My wife had the vegetable plate.  Although she enjoyed the selections, especially the heirloom tomatoes, the plate was, in some strange way, too large and heavy for a vegetable plate.  The portions were copious and the inclusion of fried vegetables seemed too weighty for this application.  In my vision, a vegetable plate should be light and modestly portioned, a reflection of the philosophy of the dish.  You may disagree.

No dessert was ordered as we had an evening engagement.

The server was skilled at her profession.  She was a bit stretched.  There were two servers covering the dining room which consists of close to 25 tables.  But she was not flustered and we never felt lost.  She was informative and let us dictate our own pace.  She was friendly without being intrusive.  Her uniform was not crisp.  The blue jeans as a uniform choice do not bother me, but a crisp shirt is a must.  She never told us her name.

The restaurant was clean and comfortable.  The bar is dimly lit with a view of sublimely quiet 19th street, while the dining room is open and lit for comfortable dining.  The restrooms were clean and attractive.

There is no music.  I am not sure about that idea.  When a restaurant is busy, the noises themselves create an exciting ambient energy, but with reduced overall traffic and less ambient noise, a silent dining room can seem austere or stand-offish to some diners.

Overall, we really enjoyed the visit and will return soon.  The food and service are very good and the location, for us, cannot be beat.

Missed Opporunities

What is fredeatshouston?

What?

The second of journalism's five aforementioned "W"'s.  What.  The simplest  answer is the right one, as the rule goes.  That answer is, well, a website.  A blog, perhaps, is even more simple.

You could call it a guide, I guess. Or a consumer tool, a review site.  You can call it an advice column or even a restaurant refugee's journal.  A Houston foodie resource sounds good, too.  Of course, I hope for all of those things on the most practical and tangible levels.  But, truly, I have higher hopes than that. 

In truth, I hope to start a dialog.  Yes, a dialog.  A conversation about food and service and Houston and the things in between.  A back and forth between reader and writer.  Not a one-sided continuum of Fred-Speak, but a true give and take, an ebb and flow of restaurant and food and service discussion.  Not only what makes me tick, but what makes you tick.  You ask, I tell.  I ask, you tell. 

I want this place to crackle, to breathe, to live.  Like a restaurant.

A great restaurant is alive.  She breathes.  She hums.  You feel it.  As a guest, as an employee, as an owner.  A great restaurant has energy and life.  She has attitude.  She has personality and charisma.  That's why we fall in love.

A great restaurant is not only about eating, the practical, but also about food.  Food as expression and joy.  Truly.  Places for meeting and sharing and company.  They are about the people you see and know and meet.  Restaurants are about service.  About feeling special and being remembered. Restaurants are about relationships. 

A great restaurant isn't a place where customers come to eat, it is a place where friends come to dine.

That is my goal.  To share.  To share about service and dining and food and Houston and to create better diners and better dining along the way.

Is that too lofty for a simple restaurant website?  No.  It isn't. 

See, I believe that we love our restaurants.  We live in them.  We have breakfast.  We have lunch.  We have dinner.  We do business. We do pleasure.  We celebrate.  Graduations and weddings and birthdays.  We get engaged and say goodbyes.  We laugh and cry.  We live our very lives in these places. 

In fact, we call them home.

Raia's Italian Market

We dropped in on the spur of the moment.  We had been watching the place, Raia's Italian Market, come along and our interest was piqued, besides, I had heard different things about the place while working. 

It was Friday and we did not have a reservation and the place was on a short wait.  I am assuming it was the owners who were on premise and participating in the evening, which was nice to see.  We were offered drinks while we waited and were seated before finishing them.  

It's a quaint little place with a marketplace atmosphere. You can buy Italian meats and cheeses and anti pasti at the counter for take home or you can enjoy a meal at the store.  Shelves for browsing and shopping are set amidst the sufficiently sized dining room.  The patio was unused due to weather.

The wine list was small but well conceived, offering a nice variety of Mediterranean wines at good prices.

The food was quite nice and seem to be house prepared, for the most part.  The calamari was quite good.  The Rotunno pizza was not so great. 

Once seated our service was slow and well, not smooth.  The server was new to the store and new to service, I assume.  His uniform was not crisp, but it fit in with his colleagues.  He was friendly, but lost in what he was doing.  And we were in a corner, just out of view of anyone who could help.

We ordered a round of drinks, of which, only one came.  When I asked if we could get a half order of Calamari, something every other family owned Italian restaurant in this city would do, we were told unceremoniously "No."  Our server never offered to check with the kitchen.  At least lie to me and tell me my request is special enough for managerial consideration.  Instead, simply "No." 

The restroom was clean, but the hall leading to it was teeming with dry goods.  Not in an organized, intentional fashion, but more in a "put it anywhere" type of style.

Lastly, we observed a manager or shift leader smoking in the parking lot while on duty.  Not good.  we almost didn't go in.

The owners were there, the people were friendly and the food was pretty good.  All positive in concept.  But the details missed amount to an opportunity lost on us.

Some of the issues, I am sure, stem from the place's rapid growth and management's struggle to keep up, but there were many, many details being missed.  Meanwhile, there are more choices coming to Washington Ave.

After a few months, I imagine many of the kinks will be worked out and the service will be much smoother.  The place is worth a try, but go on a slow night or try takeout, because the food was worth the visit.

Otilia's Mexican Restaurant

I was looking for a casual Mexican place the other day.  My wife had been craving Mexican since she had been out of town and so we were trying to find someplace new.  She had heard of this place on Long Point behind Ikea.  Yes, behind Ikea. 

First, looking for Mexican food for me is a little challenging.  Only authentic Mexican will do.  I have worked in Houston kitchens all my life so I have grown up on real Mexican and Latin food.  Eating what the cooks are eating.  So, all the chains and Tex-Mex places are out. 

Second, I am a service nut.  I like to go places where the servers care about your experience and take pride in their job.  I want to dine.  I want to feel welcome.  Unfortunately, many of the small places in town, Mexican or otherwise, miss that part altogether.

I googled a bit and found Otilia's on Long Point.  This must be the place, I thought.

It was.

We have been twice.  Once on Friday as a couple and once on a Saturday with the kids and a friend of theirs.  Both times the staff were very friendly and quick with a greeting.  The restaurant is clean with a nice large patio for sitting and sipping.  The place is busy and well trafficked without being bustling or crowded.  The restrooms were clean on both visits.  We were thanked by busboys and other servers as we left.

The food was very tasty from the salsa to the Huevos ala Mexicana to Chile Rellano.  The shrimp in the cocktail (weekends only) were slightly overcooked, but the sauce was good.  The poblano soup is better than the tortilla.  House Maragarita's were light and would be great in summer.

The service runs slow (both floor and kitchen) when the place gets busy. They seem a bit understaffed, but you will not feel forgotten or marooned.  Once they get you first drinks out, they find a rhythm and the flow is nice.

The patio is quite comfortable.  If you sit inside, I suggest sitting in the front dining room along the left wall, if you can, as the back seems a bit sterile.

Overall, I like this place.  Good, authentic Mexican food with friendly, attentive people.  That is win-win.