Dharma Cafe was recommended to my wife and I by a colleague who dines there regularly. After last night's visit, I am sorry that we didn't heed her advice sooner.
Located in the historic Kessler building at the corner of Houston Avenue and Crockett Street, Dharma is a completely unique experience. Owners John Gurney and Susan Ralph have infused their own life philosophies into this little restaurant, and the result is dining that is at once as soothing as it is rewarding.
Dharma, as explained on the website, is a Sanskrit word that is "best defined as the spiritual work that you do in your life to return to yourself, your center." To John and Susan, that work is being of service and "feeding their friends." There is the source of "Food for Life."
Dharma Cafe's dining room is small but very comfortable. The tables, which look out over Houston Avenue, are quaint and intimate at the same time. White linens and fresh flowers adorn each one. The chairs are an eclectic mix of American country nostalgia, with no two seeming to match. A small bar, flanked by a tiny lounge, lines one wall with seats for about eight folks to enjoy a cocktail and conversation.
The food is simple and delicious. The freshest ingredients are used with subtle seasoning to highlight, rather than confuse, their natural flavors.
From the homemade focaccia brought at the start to the cinnamon vanilla ice cream we ordered to finish.
The crab cake, ordered as an appetizer, is lump crab - and little else - served in a sassy beurre blanc sauce that melds perfectly with the sauteed seafood. Our salads were crisp and cold with beautiful tomato and cucumber and perfectly salty kalamata olives drizzled with a delightfully simple balsamic vinaigrette.
My entree was Cedar-Planked Salmon with seasonal vegetable and new potatoes. The glaze on the salmon was enough to hold its own without competing with the fish. Very nice. The vegetables were crisp and deftly prepared. My wife had the homemade shrimp and pasta special. The shrimp were large and plentiful. The pasta, itself, was outstanding. Smooth in texture and tossed in a lightly creamy sun-dried tomato sauce which managed to be rich without being weighty.
A wide-ranging wine list that offers selections from around the globe complements the fare beautifully. Plus, Dharma offers a full bar and after-dinner selections that can sate any craving. I suggest the Barros 20 Year Tawny. Smooth and luscious with the cinnamon vanilla ice cream.
The service was also a tremendous highlight. I am not easily satisfied, but here I was blown away. Intuitive, intelligent and technically very sound. Our server and his back waiter worked flawlessly together. We were never in need of a single thing. No detail was missed. While I do not remember being offered his name, our check was initialed "D". To him I offer my compliments.
Providing great dining can be a challenging task. The folks at Dharma Cafe make it simple.
Namaste, John and Sarah. Namaste.
His name is Dooley. Been there many times, food and service is always great!
Posted by: Fellow foodie | 09/09/2009 at 08:48 PM
Always eat at Dharma when in Houston. Have had the pleasure of being served by "D" but we know him as Adam. Always ask for his tables. Enjoy
Posted by: Jeanne | 09/10/2009 at 07:31 PM
I'm so happy to find your blog! We just visited Dharma for the first time last night and were so impressed I came back to find reviews. Stumbled upon yours and noticed your list of restaurants mimics mine closely and will give us ideas for the future.
I invite you to visit my blog, where I chronicle healthy eating and Houston living (Heights proud!).
Posted by: Stef | 11/08/2009 at 10:23 AM